Mt Wakefield

(6 routes)

1st Ascent. Thomas Brodrick, Louis Sladden, 1889.
There are also some good winter gully climbs on Mt Wakefield, starting from near the second swingbridge.

-43.775618120000, 170.174274440000
H36 826 108
BY16 726 492
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Routeless Guide III 3+ 12
The most direct line to Wakefields summit. From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker Valley Track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield ( the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley) Start on a compact sandstone staircase, then follow a broken ridge to the cliff bands, which are the crux of the climb. Trend slightly right on superb weathered greywacke, through the cliffs (crux Grade 12) and finish on easier ground and gullies,
Evan Davies, Cam Mulvey Feb 2017
Ranger Route a.k.a Guideless Buttress III 3 8 800m
wire representing trad
First climbed by local DOC staff in the summer of 2013, this 800m route offers some of the finest alpine scrambling near the village: enjoyable rock with some fantastic views and exposure. A fun and challenging day trip.Crux Grade 8. The route climbs the buttress on the opposite side of the scree fan from Rootless Guide. Either start directly up the base of the buttress, which is steep and scrubby, or head further right and follow up a stream that gains the crest of the buttress at about 1250m. Negotiate multiple towers and gendarmes to where the buttress eases off to lower angle rubble and the broad upper basins of Mt Wakefield, exiting just under the radio towers at 2000m. A more challenging direct route 18/19 start has been climbed higher up the scree ( Ainsworth 2018)
Sam Bamford, Rod Barker, Erin Hawke, Marcus Reid, Feb 2013
South West Ridge (Guides Route) II 2+
wire representing trad 1
The ridge was used as a training climb for guides in the early 1900s.There are several variations on the lower part of this ridge. From the true left end of the second swingbridge of the Hooker Valley track, turn off onto a faint ground trail on the true left of the valley and begin climbing anywhere from near the second swingbridge as far as the first really large scree slope on the East Side of the Hooker Valley, near the third swingbridge. (The second scree up valley from the second swingbridge seems to lead to the most pleasing line.) Some great pockets of solid red rock can be found, but the main challenge is avoiding the scrub. Higher up, the overall angle eases, but the rock quality deteriorates. The variations converge just below a small cheval around 1680m. The upper ridge merges into a series of basins and spurs south of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.
First ascent unknown.
Winter Western Gully II 3 WI2
From Mt Cook White Horse Hill camping area follow the Hooker Lake Walking track past 3 swing bridges (last one being the upper hooker bridge) until the track gets close to the western side of the valley. Back cut across on an angle up into the obvious wide western gully. From here tend to the true left of the gully, as it narrows tend to the true right. Follow this easy angled gully straight up onto the southern ridge of Mt Wakefeild leading to the summit. Some rock steps will need to be climbed in the upper gully depending on the time of season/conditions. Harder mixed gullies are possible in various places in this gully. Not recommended without snow/ice in the gully to hold things together.
682557 The Old Man And The Scree 15 120m
wire representing trad 2
2 x 60m pitches, sparse pro ,plenty of loose rock. mostly pretty easy, crux at grade 15
eyore and growly 25th dec 2014
From the Tasman road bridge
From the Tasman road bridge climb up the vegetated spur that eventually leads to the summit. This is an excellent day or overnight trip and could form the descent if the Guide Route (from the Hooker) is climbed. Panoramic views.