Mt Wakefield

The most direct line to Mt Wakefield’s summit. From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker valley track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield (the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley). Start on a compact sandstone staircase on the true right of the scree (grade 10–12), then follow a broken ridge to the cliff bands, which are the crux of the climb. Trend right from the flat col at the top of the ridge on superb weathered greywacke to behind the obvious pink notch on the right edge of the cliff bands. This bypasses the cliffs via another sandstone staircase (crux) to finish on easier ground and gullies to the summit.
Numerous direct lines through the cliff bands exist with rock quality varying between take-home-with-you and excellent, with adequate protection available with cams 0.5-2. See topo for bypass route and variations.

Also known as the Ranger Route, this 800m route was first climbed by local DOC staff in the summer of 2013 and offers some of the finest alpine scrambling near the village: enjoyable rock with some fantastic views and exposure. A fun and challenging day trip.
From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker valley track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield (the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley). Climb the buttress on the true left of the scree. Either start directly up the base of the buttress, which is steep and scrubby, or head further right and follow up a stream that gains the crest of the buttress at about 1250m. Negotiate multiple towers and gendarmes to where the buttress eases off to lower angle rubble and the broad upper basins of Mt Wakefield, exiting just under the radio towers at 2000m. A more challenging direct start (grade 18–19) has been climbed higher up the scree (Lewis Ainsworth, 2018).

A number of gullies on both sides of the South West Ridge have been climbed when filled with snow and ice. Details about these routes are scarce – please add more information if you have it:

• The first major scree fan in the East Hooker is one of these, known as the Winter Western Gully.
• The gullies just past the second swing bridge have been climbed, including one by Joe Friend and Colin Monteath in 1972 known as the Gully of a Thin Man.
• The gully that begins at the large scree downstream of the second swingbridge, on the south side of the South West Ridge, is called Bad Obsession.
• The right-hand variant (looking up) to the Bad Obsession gully is called Psych Ward.
• These latter gullies are also used as (bold!) ski lines. They encounter steep terrain at about 1700m, which could be unclimbed as it’s possible to abort by traversing either right or left.

This ridge was used as a training climb for guides in the early 1900s.There are several variations on the lower part of this ridge.
From the true left end of the second swingbridge of the Hooker valley track, turn off onto a faint ground trail on the true left of the valley and begin climbing anywhere from near the second swingbridge as far as the first really large scree slope on the east side of the Hooker valley, near the third swingbridge. (The second scree up valley from the second swingbridge seems to lead to the most pleasing line.) Some great pockets of solid red rock can be found, but the main challenge is avoiding the scrub. Higher up, the overall angle eases, but the rock quality deteriorates. The variations converge just below a small cheval around 1680m. The upper ridge merges into a series of basins and spurs south of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.

This route is accessed from the first swingbridge on the Hooker valley track, along an old track that follows down the true left bank of the Hooker River. Visible from the village is a prominent scree slope and a series of buttresses leading to the ridge between Pt 1827m and Pt 1566m. Ascend the scree then aim for the left side of the buttress that separates a large hidden gully from the main scree. Climb slabs immediately right of a big corner and finish up the chimney. Two 60m pitches (grade 15), sparse protection, and loose rock. Walk off the back. According to Trev, it’s a ‘pretty worthless route for the effort to get there.’

This is an excellent day or overnight trip, with panoramic views. From the Tasman valley road bridge over the Hooker River, climb up the vegetated spur that eventually leads over scree and boulder fields to the summit. The true summit is a long way beyond the highest point that you can see from the village. Navigation on the upper ridge can be difficult in cloudy conditions. Descend the same way.