Mt Wakefield

The most direct line to Wakefields summit. From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker Valley Track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield ( the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley) Start on a compact sandstone staircase, then follow a broken ridge to the cliff bands, which are the crux of the climb. Trend slightly right on superb weathered greywacke, through the cliffs (crux Grade 12) and finish on easier ground and gullies,

First climbed by local DOC staff in the summer of 2013, this 800m route offers some of the finest alpine scrambling near the village: enjoyable rock with some fantastic views and exposure. A fun and challenging day trip.Crux Grade 8. The route climbs the buttress on the opposite side of the scree fan from Rootless Guide. Either start directly up the base of the buttress, which is steep and scrubby, or head further right and follow up a stream that gains the crest of the buttress at about 1250m. Negotiate multiple towers and gendarmes to where the buttress eases off to lower angle rubble and the broad upper basins of Mt Wakefield, exiting just under the radio towers at 2000m. A more challenging direct route 18/19 start has been climbed higher up the scree ( Ainsworth 2018)

A number of gullies on both sides of the South West Ridge have been climbed when filled with snow and ice. The first major scree fan in the East Hooker is one of these, known as the Winter Western Gully. The gullies just past the second swing bridge have also been climbed, one by Joe Friend and Colin Monteath in 1972, known as the Gully of a Thin Man. The gully that begins at the large scree downstream of the second swingbridge, on the south side of the South West Ridge, is called Bad Obsession, and the right-hand variant (looking up) to this gully is called Psych Ward. These latter gullies are also used as (bold!) ski lines. They encounter steep terrain at about 1700m, which could be unclimbed, as it’s possible to abort by traversing either right or left. Details about these routes are scarce; it is hoped that more information will eventually be available on climbnz.org.nz.

The ridge was used as a training climb for guides in the early 1900s.There are several variations on the lower part of this ridge. From the true left end of the second swingbridge of the Hooker Valley track, turn off onto a faint ground trail on the true left of the valley and begin climbing anywhere from near the second swingbridge as far as the first really large scree slope on the East Side of the Hooker Valley, near the third swingbridge. (The second scree up valley from the second swingbridge seems to lead to the most pleasing line.) Some great pockets of solid red rock can be found, but the main challenge is avoiding the scrub. Higher up, the overall angle eases, but the rock quality deteriorates. The variations converge just below a small cheval around 1680m. The upper ridge merges into a series of basins and spurs south of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.

This route is accessed from the first swingbridge on the Hooker valley track, along an old track that follows down the true left bank of the Hooker River. Visible from the village is a prominent scree slope and a series of buttresses leading to the ridge between Pt 1827m and Pt 1566m. Ascend the scree then aim for the left side of the buttress that separates a large hidden gully from the main scree. Climb slabs immediately right of a big corner and finish up the chimney. Two 60m pitches (grade 15), sparse protection, and loose rock. Walk off the back. According to Trev, it’s a ‘pretty worthless route for the effort to get there.’ Sandra Martin, Trevor Streat, Dec 2014

This is an excellent day or overnight trip, with panoramic views. From the Tasman valley road bridge over the Hooker River, climb up the vegetated spur that eventually leads over scree and boulder fields to the summit. The true summit is a long way beyond the highest point that you can see from the village. Navigation on the upper ridge can be difficult in cloudy conditions. Descend the same way.