Ranger Route a.k.a Guideless Buttress

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
First climbed by local DOC staff in the summer of 2013, this 800m route offers some of the finest alpine scrambling near the village: enjoyable rock with some fantastic views and exposure. A fun and challenging day trip.Crux Grade 8. The route climbs the buttress on the opposite side of the scree fan from Rootless Guide. Either start directly up the base of the buttress, which is steep and scrubby, or head further right and follow up a stream that gains the crest of the buttress at about 1250m. Negotiate multiple towers and gendarmes to where the buttress eases off to lower angle rubble and the broad upper basins of Mt Wakefield, exiting just under the radio towers at 2000m. A more challenging direct route 18/19 start has been climbed higher up the scree ( Ainsworth 2018)
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
183III800mYes
Grade: 
III 3 8
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
800m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Sam Bamford, Rod Barker, Erin Hawke, Marcus Reid, Feb 2013
UUID: 
7eb34984-6bb5-45aa-ad6d-2220e11037fa