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Rumblestiltzskin

Grade
VI,6,WI4,M5
Quality
0
First ascent
Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, Jul 1991.
Located on

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) VI
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 6
  • Water Ice WI4
  • Mixed M5

Follows a prominent gully up through the rock buttress in a direct fall line from Middle Peak. Approach via the snow field under the Atkinson/Hall route, and then traverse right beneath the rock buttress. The gully involves steep climbing. At the top of the gully there's a natural exit (hidden from view) out to a short snow slope. Follow it's left edge to a final rock wall just right of the Middle Peak apex (where this climb temporarily joined Boogie til you Puke), but then ice formations should lead up through the rock - traversing you out leftwards to finish on the rib immediately left of Middle Peak. If there is no ice use the rock (grade 17) finish of the aforementioned route or come up with another solution. The first ascent took 3 winter bivvys.


Comments
Attribution
Photo : Simon Middlemass
UUID
 
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