Aiguilles Rouges

(10 routes)

Malte Brun Range


30m rap line with DBA, installed 2017 as per photos

-43.577596000000, 170.291894000000
I36 913 331
BX16 813 715
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South Face 3+
Traverse across the Onslow Glacier to gain the broad rib on the right side of the Face. Head up the rib, which eventually merges into the 45-50 degree slopes of the upper face, arriving on the summit ridge between the East and High Peaks.
Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Jan 1980
East Ridge 2+
An enjoyable climb with plenty of variety. Access from Onslow Hut is easy except for a short section of rotten rock. The lower flat sections of the ridge can be avoided by keeping to the Onslow Glacier, but two prominent rock steps have to be climbed where the ridge begins to steepen, and after another 200m a snow bulge is climbed. The route then gradually lies back up to the East Peak. It is roughly 25 minutes from here to the Main Peak.
M J P Glasgow, Harry Stevenson, Dec 1951
North East Ridge 2
Ascend from Malte Brun pass onto this ridge climbing good rock over the East Peak and on to the high peak. The ridge starts in the Cascade Glacier but is gained at half height from Malte Brun Pass.
Laurence Earle, Peter Graham, Mar 1909 (Descended
North East Flank 2
Via the Malte Brun Pass. There are two narrowish couloirs, the left one leading up to near the East Peak, and the right one providing access to broad snowslopes leading to the main summit. A good descent route.
Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Mar 1913.
5 North Ridge 2
From the Pass ascend the ridge to the right of the NE Ridge. Excellent rock. Farther right are steeper variations with good climbing.
Laurence Earle, Peter Graham, March 1909;
6 Intermediate Ridge 3-
Starting right of the North West Ridge, from the upper Beetham Stream, climb up a ridge crossing the occasional shingle covered ledge. Continue up the snow slope to link with the small ridge between the North West Ridge and the West Ridge. Joins the North East Ridge below the summit.
(Possibly) Ross Cullen, Chris Knol, January 1982
7 Central Gully 3-
Climb the gully between the two rock buttresses on the west face. Left of the West Ridge. Climbed with snow/ice in the gully.
(Possibly) Ako Groot, Hawke Groot, January 1991
8 West Ridge 3+
From Malte Brun Pass traverse across scree ledges to gain the ridge at half height. Ascend good rock with some surprisingly difficult sections.
Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, February 1960
9 Tiddley Pom 3-
Approached from the upper Beetham Valley. Ascend the prominent couloir on the south-west face.
Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, August 1992
10 South Ridge 2+
Approached from the upper Beetham Valley. Gained by a large winding couloir (prone to rockfall), which ends in a short rotten rock face. The ridge is rather rotten at first and then improves.
J Boyd, M McPhail, John Nankervis, Jan 1973
Facebook NZAC, Will Rowntree, Rapline.

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