Skip to main content

First Light

Grade
II,4
Length
300m
Natural pro required
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Jon Tyler, Gavin Lang, 22/09/2016
Located on

P1: Climb the snow ramp, pitching can begin out of the schrund. Up steep
bulge then right leaning ice ramp over second bulge.
P2: Series of bulges leading to open snow gully
P3: Snow gully leading to right leaning steeper ice
P4: Two steeper bulges
P5: (Crux) Straight up narrowing ice lead. Some rock pro on either side, and
mixed feel to the moves and placements (.4 cam, slings and medium nut)
The route and summit catches the sun by midday and hang fire can be a problem
on descent if rappelling the route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • 300m
  • Trad

Climbs the obvious gully between the NW Pinnacle and the West Buttress on good ice. A steepening finale.


Comments
Attribution
Gavin Lang
UUID
 
b452db33-ef84-4be0-ac13-2e10db0bd579