Mt Jervois

(3 routes)

When iced up the south-west face of Jervois looks to have plenty of new route potential. Some short crag-style routes have been developed on the rock buttresses near Centennial Hut by Peter Taw and John Entwisle. The first route (crux 18) is situated south-west of the hut, on the third buttress from the left as you face it. The second route (crux 20) is on the distinctive red buttress north-east of the hut, and north of Jervois. This route takes a groove.

-43.513139940000, 170.237728800000
H35 867 401
BX16 767 785
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Main Divide
Easy scrambling on the northern Divide ridge. The southern Divide ridge is steeper and has good rock.
Alex Graham, B Marsden, Apr 1916.
North West Ridge 2+
Follow the ridge above Centennial Hut over two distinct gendarmes and onto the summit. Good rock. An excellent warm-up before breakfast.
Miss I Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933.
Team Piha 3-
Climb two pitches up the big snow ramp on the SW aspect to the ridge (about 50-60-degrees alpine ice but likely conditions dependent). Travel eastwards along the ridge toward the summit for about one rope length. There can be a short, very narrow and exposed section near the summit where care will need to be taken. From here is less than a full rope length to the summit, from memory. Descend via the north side, 4 abseils from memory, possibly 5. Be aware of the 'schrund when returning to the neve. Excellent intro route to the area for progressing mountaineers. A fun half day out.
G Pennycook, F Eldridge, L Andersson, November 2008
Alex Palman