Mick Browne, Keith Woodford, Nov 1972.
A route further right was soloed by Bernard Wietlisbach in Feb 1978.
- Alpine (Technical) 4+
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 5
Climb through the bottom cliffs which usually have two pitches of hard climbing, then up a sustained shield of ice. There are a number of variations. [6-7 pitches to the ridge , approx 8 x 60m abseils.]