Mt Hicks

(32 routes)

First ascended by Alex Graham, Henry Newton, R S Low, 1906. Their route via the west ridge has largely fallen away.

-43.587478550000, 170.129299160000
H36 782 316
BX15 683 699
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
North Rib 4- 15
Also known as the Biscuit Tin route. From the access route over Harper Saddle to the upper La Perouse Névé, ascend good rock on the face to the right of the rib. The rib steepens towards the top (crux 14/15). Then follow a flattening ridge for 250m to join the top of the couloir on the Curtain Route.
Peter Gough, P Barry, D Drake, Aat Vervoorn, Nov 1969.
Red Wall 4
An eight pitch route up red rock to the left of couloir on the Curtain Route
Mark Inglis, Richard Pears, Dec 1980.
Curtain Route (Standard Route) 3
From Harper Saddle ascend the snowslope diagonally to the gap in the west ridge (beware rockfall from the Curtain). Continue up the ridge for 150m before crossing left to a major couloir. Ascend the couloir which comes out about l00m down the ridge from the final 40m rock wall below the summit. Descending. All the old fixed gear (pegs, chocks etc) in the Curtain/open book corner have fallen out or been removed. Bolt anchors can now be found in the standard descent couloir. Five abseils from the top of the couloir followed by an easy traverse across a rock ridge onto the slopes below the Curtain allows easy access to Harper Saddle. Do not rappel down the Curtain.
George Lowe, Geof Milne, Jan 1949.
Divide Route 3+
From Harper Saddle head up on snow to the left of the Divide for a short distance before crossing onto the edge of the South Face. Follow up ledges and bluffs overlooking the South Face until the Divide flattens out, then follow the ridge up the final 40m wall to the summit.
Harry Ayres, Oscar Coberger, Feb 1951.
Alex Palman


Type Title Link to edit content
Face (Alpine) South Face (21 routes)
Face (Alpine) North Face (7 routes)