Mt Haast North Pk

(14 routes)

This is predominantly a rock peak with plenty of scope for new variations. The North Peak of Haast has been incorrectly known for a long time as the West Peak of Mt Haast. The three peaks of Haast run perpendicular to the Main Divide, and most people assume the Main Divide runs north to south. Not always...

North East
-43.555240000000, 170.176580000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11.85 Traverse of the three peaks (‘Haast GT’) IV 4
This route involves one of the North Peak ascent routes and then traverses the Middle and High Peaks. A pleasant climb made quite committing because of its length. The rock near the Middle and High Peaks is loose. A classic traverse, first completed without crampons.
Hans Bohny, T Sidler, Jan 1955
11.86 North East Rib (Spur 5) IV 4 4-
500m of climbing on four rock buttresses with linking snow ridges to reach a gap south of North Peak. The lower buttress is comprised of solid rock, the second is steep rotten rock, and the remainder good rock.
Austin Brookes, Bruce Farmer, Ralph Miller, Jan 1978.
11.87 Atkinson-Hall Route IV 4+ 16
Ascend the ice gully beneath North Peak with a rock crux (15/16) at two-thirds height. The top section is on generally poor rock. It has been climbed in winter as a mixed route.
Bill Atkinson, Rob Hall, Nov 1981.
11.88 Natural Gas III 5+
Starts left of the large corner on the left side of the North East Spur. Up the face on ice leads until steep mixed ground is encountered. The first ascentionists abandoned the climb here by traversing to the North East Spur; the route is awaiting a finish to the North Peak. The routeis best climbed when the face is heavily rimed. Choose a not too hot day, as the face gets a lot of sun and the rime ice can fall down. Dave’s comment on the route was ‘harder than the Central Gully on Douglas.’ Named after the LPG gas heater flown in to Pioneer Hut for the trip.
Rich Turner, Allan Uren, Dave Vass, Aug 2002
11.89 Nash-Aimer Route III 4+ 17
wire representing trad
A face route that starts between the Atkinson-Hall and North Spur routes. From the bottom, move gradually left until the North East Spur route is visible, then move right over chossy ground. Continue straight up, climbing 20m of superb exposed slab en route, to join the North East Spur route where it flattens, and then continue to the summit. Red rock provides cruxes of 16/17 and good protection.
Carol Nash, Greg Aimer, Jan 1986.
11.90 North East Spur III 3+
Starts just right of Nash-Aimer. Traverse right across a ledge low on the spur and then ascend the rib until the large gully on the right meets the top of the rib. Climb up the ridge crest on good rock. A recommended variation at 2/3 height is to climb the face on the right, on excellent rock. Higher up, the ridge flattens out before rising again to the summit. Descended by the same route. Historically referred to as the West Ridge.
Harry Ayres, Geoff Harrow, Alan Rattray, Apr 1952
11.91 Couloir Route III 3
Ascend the prominent couloir to the right of the North East Spur. At the top of the couloir, turn left to join the North East Spur route.
First ascent party unknown.
11.92 North Ridge III 3+
Ascend the rib to the right of the North East Couloir to gain the ridge proper, continue toa prominent gendarme (the top of Sun Circle), which can be turned on the north or traversed, and then up the face where the North East Spur joins the ridge, to the summit.
Hans Bohny, Tony Sidler, Jan 1955
11.93 Eurostar II 5 18
wire representing trad
Amongst the ramparts of Mt Haast, a stellar 60m pinnacle. Good pro small to med wires & cams.
Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken, Dec 2011
11.94 Forgotten Corner III 4+
Climb a prominent corner to the right of Eurostar for three pitches of good rock, and then seven pitches on deteriorating quality rock (crux 16), to reach the gendarme of Sun Circle. Abseil the face to the climber’s right of Sun Circle.
Daniel Joll, Charles Langelier, Jan 2011
11.95 Sun Circle II 4+ 17
wire representing trad
Climbs the left edge of a large slab just up and right from Eurostar, to the left of a large gully. The route begins from a block of rock adjacent to where a schrund usually forms. Six pitches of steep climbing (crux 17) on some quality rock up to the top of a prominent gendarme. Abseil directly back down the face.
Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken, Dec 2011
Golden Eye 20
A route to the right of Sun Circle, effectively following the abseil line. 5 Pitches.
Llewellyn Murdoch ,Alison Swintz, Mar 2012
11.96 North Couloir III 3 3+
A small couloir separating the extremities of the ridge, eventually leading to the North Ridge.
E R B Graham and D J Heraud, Feb 1957
11.97 North West Toe III 3
A good alternative start to the North Ridge. Access the spur from the left and scramble up to join Route 11.92.
Ron Dickie, Gordon Hasell, 1958
1.Aoraki Tai-Poutini Guidebook 2.Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken - Topo

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