Mt Haast Middle Pk

(6 routes)

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11.82 From High Peak III 3 3+
An exposed scramble over loose rock that can be complicated by icy conditions.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, Jan 1936.
11.83 3/4 Couloir IV 3
The prominent couloir on the East Face between Spur 3 and Spur 4, to the left of the Middle Peak, has been used for ascent and descent. The route comes out 80m east of the Middle Peak.
Mike Rockell, Michael Venz, plus party of three, August 1979
Vanilla Ice III 5 A5 WI4 M3
Follow up obvious ice line on the East Face, then up gully to mixed terrain to summit.
Asher March, Lukas Kirchner, October 2020
11.84 Spur 4 (North East Ridge) IV 3+
A direct climb up a series of steps on the rib to reach Middle Peak. The lower and middle sections of the rib are somewhat loose. Crux pitches of grade 12 but nowhere very difficult unless iced up.
Austin Brookes, Peter Moore, John Trotter, Jan 1973
Middle-High Peak Col 3-
Ascend from the upper Marcel Glacier via a snow couloir.
Harold Porter, Jack Pope, Mar 1933.
Psychoterratica III 5+ M5 200m
wire representing trad
A fantastic, fun line, with many styles packed into a small space. Transitions from steep ice through to a chockstone/ chimney, finishing on some steep, mix terrain....and an easy summit ridge line to the top.
Josef Král, Jake Gray, Gavin Lang 24 Sept 2022