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First ascent
Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford, 3 September 2019
Located on

On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'.
This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 100m

Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.

  • P2
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Mixed M4
  • 60m

Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.

  • P3
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI3
  • Mixed M4
  • 60m

Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay

  • P4
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI2
  • 55m

Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur

  • P5
  • Alpine (Technical) 5+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Mixed M5
  • 60m

Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.

  • P6
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 70m

Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m

  • P7
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 40m

Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.

Gavin Lang