East Face

(4 routes)

The spurs on the east face of Mt Haast have been numbered from 1 to 5, starting at Pioneer Pass and heading right. There are no recorded ascents of Spur 1 and Spur 3.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
11.79 Authors' Route III 3
Ascend the prominent couloir between Spur 1 and Spur 2, beginning about 150m west of the crest of Pioneer Pass, reaching the Main Divide about 100m east of where the Haast massif abuts it. Traverse the ridge to the summit (refer to Route 11.110).
Mavis Davidson, Rod Hewitt, AF Reid, Jan 1955.
11.80 Spur 2 III 3
Gained from a quarter of the way up Route 11.79, and leads directly to High Peak. The climbing is fairly steep without being technical. The rock is sound to begin with and very shattered towards the top.
Jack Murrell, Bev Noble, Jan 1973
11.81 Goulstone-Rockell Gully III 4+
Ascend the next obvious gully right of Spur 2, then up mixed ground to the left of the upper gully to finish near the summit.
John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Aug 1982
Hotline IV 3+,IV 4 M4,IV 4+ WI3 M4,IV 3+ WI2,IV 5+ M5,IV 3,IV 3 445m
On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'. This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.


Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.


Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay


Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur


Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.


Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m


Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.

Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford, 3 September 2019