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Mt Green

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POINT (170.311663 -43.495147)
BX16 826 807
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 South Ridge, 3+ 3+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

From Climbers Col (access may be cut off late in the season) climb the first rock step direct then along a horizontal arête and up the second step to where the ridge flattens. Then up a blocky ridge to summit.

 South East Face, 3+ 3+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Take the gully in the centre of the face, depending on the condition of the upper face, join either the South Ridge or South East Buttress.

 South East Buttress, 3+ 3+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

From the basin below Climbers Col head right and gain the prominent rib. Move up steep loose rock until some grey slabs (the Cod Piece) are met halfway up. Then continue up steep loose ground onto the upper part of the South Ridge.

 East Face, Left Hand Trinity, 5- 5-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5-

Take the obvious deep cut couloir on the left hand side of the face. Seven pitches, with occasional 80o sections, top out on the south ridge 3-4 pitches from the summit.

 East Face NE Ridge (Main Divide), 2 2

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Climb up the broad plateau between Mts Green and Walter via the prominent SE ridge. Alternative routes onto the plateau exist, but the ridge is the best. Then either head up snowslopes on the East Face or the mixed snow/rock of the North East Ridge.

 The Pink Route, 17,4 17,4

  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

On the North West Face. From the slopes leading down from Divers Col to the Spencer Glacier, ascend the rock face leading directly to the summit. Ten pitches

 West Ridge, 3 3

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From the Spencer Glacier climb up onto the Edwards Glacier névé below Climbers Col and head left onto the ridge. Follow the snowslopes and rock ribs to the summit. The ridge could also be gained from the slopes below Divers Col.

West Face West FaceEaton's run

Access is via an excellent gully from the upper Stevenson Glacier. From the upper Edwards Neve climb through rock band on the left of the face to the steep snowfield. Then tend right on the snowfield to the base of the rock of the South West ridge.
Climb into the odvious break and leads right ar first and will eventually bring you to the upper section of the South West ridge ant onto the summit.

 Chocolate Cake, IV 6 IV 6

Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly snice with a little bit of rock/water ice.
An engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow.
The crux second pitch (WI4+) goes directly up a smear of steep ice - an amazing pitch of alpine climbing.
Approached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Greens east face.

Alex Palman