Mt Green

(8 routes)

-43.495147000000, 170.311663000000
I35 926 423
BX16 826 807
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South Ridge 3+
From Climbers Col (access may be cut off late in the season) climb the first rock step direct then along a horizontal arête and up the second step to where the ridge flattens. Then up a blocky ridge to summit.
D Dawe, Hamish Maclnnes, Dick Irwin, Feb 1956.
South East Face 3+
Take the gully in the centre of the face, depending on the condition of the upper face, join either the South Ridge or South East Buttress.
Kevin Carroll, John Andrews, Jan 1971.
South East Buttress 3+
From the basin below Climbers Col head right and gain the prominent rib. Move up steep loose rock until some grey slabs (the Cod Piece) are met halfway up. Then continue up steep loose ground onto the upper part of the South Ridge.
Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, Feb 1960.
East Face, Left Hand Trinity 5-
Take the obvious deep cut couloir on the left hand side of the face. Seven pitches, with occasional 80o sections, top out on the south ridge 3-4 pitches from the summit.
Mike Smith, Tony Dignan, Oct 1986.
East Face NE Ridge (Main Divide) 2
Climb up the broad plateau between Mts Green and Walter via the prominent SE ridge. Alternative routes onto the plateau exist, but the ridge is the best. Then either head up snowslopes on the East Face or the mixed snow/rock of the North East Ridge.
Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, F W Vollmann, Feb 1909 (NE Ridge).
The Pink Route 4 17
On the North West Face. From the slopes leading down from Divers Col to the Spencer Glacier, ascend the rock face leading directly to the summit. Ten pitches
Phil Pitham, Mark Whetu, Feb 1983.
West Ridge 3
From the Spencer Glacier climb up onto the Edwards Glacier névé below Climbers Col and head left onto the ridge. Follow the snowslopes and rock ribs to the summit. The ridge could also be gained from the slopes below Divers Col.
D A Carty, L J Dumbleton, J D Willis, D J Stanton, Jan 1938.
West Face Eaton's run
Access is via an excellent gully from the upper Stevenson Glacier. From the upper Edwards Neve climb through rock band on the left of the face to the steep snowfield. Then tend right on the snowfield to the base of the rock of the South West ridge. Climb into the odvious break and leads right ar first and will eventually bring you to the upper section of the South West ridge ant onto the summit.
Greg Duley, Emil Hansen & Don French 31/1/2021
Alex Palman