Mt Green

A varied and enjoyable climb, best enjoyed on a sunny day in early summer. From Climbers Col, climb the first rock step direct, then follow a horizontal arête and up the second step to where the ridge flattens. Then up a blocky ridge to the summit.

From the basin below Climbers Col, take the gully in the centre of the face and then, depending on the condition of the upper face, join either the South West Ridge or South Buttress.

From the basin below Climbers Col head right and gain the prominent rib. Move up steep loose rock until some grey slabs (the Cod Piece) are met halfway up. Then continue up steep loose ground onto the upper part of the South West Ridge.

Take the obvious deep-cut couloir on the left hand side of the big south face. First climbed in seven pitches, with occasional 80-degree sections. The couloir tops out on the South West Ridge three or four pitches from the summit.

Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly snice with a little bit of rock/water ice.
An engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow.
The crux second pitch (WI4+) goes directly up a smear of steep ice - an amazing pitch of alpine climbing.
Approached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Greens east face.

From the plateau below Divers Col, climb a sustained 40 degree snowslope up the east face where schrunds allow. This or the North East Ridge offer the best descent from Mt Green. First ascent unknown.

From Divers Col, ascend mixed snow and rock on the Main Divide.

From the slopes leading down from Divers Col to the Spencer Glacier, ascend the rock face leading directly to the summit. Ten pitches.

The north side of the Edwards Névé feeds two small icefalls, which in turn feed two parallel couloirs that fall to the true left edge of the Times Glacier. To reach the Edwards Névé from the Times Glacier, ascend the eastern couloir using rock on the climber’s left where crevasses dictate. From the névé, head left onto the ridge, and follow snow slopes and rock ribs to the summit. The ridge could also be gained from the Stevenson Glacier.

Access to this west face route is via an excellent gully from the upper Stevenson Glacier. From the upper Edwards Neve climb through rock band on the left of the face to the steep snowfield. Then tend right on the snowfield to the base of the rock of the South West ridge.
Climb into the obvious break and leading right at first will eventually bring you to the upper section of the South West ridge and on to the summit.