Welchman Glacier Route

Ascend the glacier and up a couloir (sometimes cornice threatened) to an unnamed col. Then either follow the Main Divide to the summit or drop down onto the western slopes and ascend from there. It is also possible to cross to Bernard Col from the Welchman Glacier, but it is a longer climb. The Welchman Glacier route is the best means of descent from Mt Burns. Three or more abseils may be necessary to descend over a cornice at the top. (Bernard Col may present similar problems.)