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Harper Saddle

Part of

Between Hooker & La Perouse Gl

POINT (170.1193428 -43.58872192)
BX15 675 698
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 From the Hooker Side

  • P1

Ascend from the upper Hooker via a steep 150m snowface direct to the Saddle. If this route is cut off, then ways can be found to the right or left of Sturdee. A bolt abseil anchor can be found on the rock outcrop below and slightly right of Harper Saddle, on the Hooker Side.

 To reach the La Perouse Valley

  • P1

Descend the icefalls below the saddle, probably on the true left - a very broken route, which may not be possible later in the summer, see description below.

 To reach the La Perouse Glacier, Névé and the North Face of Hicks, 3- 3-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

Descend 200m from the saddle, keeping right, then ascend 150m snow or loose rock to the horizontal section of the ridge running down from Mt Hicks, reaching a small névé. At this point, to reach the La Perouse Glacier between the upper and lower icefalls, follow down snow slopes to the right of the diagonal ridge. Otherwise to reach the upper La Perouse Névé, cross a small névé towards the North Rib of Hicks, descend a short distance beneath a rock buttress and cross to a flat ridge. Using the left of two obvious notches descend 150m down a steep rotten rock gully (which usually requires an abseil) and snowslope to reach the main glacier below the North Face of Hicks. Time from Empress to the La Perouse Névé 2-4 hours.

Alex Palman