The Footstool

More than a variation of Route 3.02, as the gully is a distinct feature. From the bergschrund at the base of the east face, climb snow and ice gullies 200m left of the main couloir. One pitch going left, then three pitches going right in a series of gullies to reach the ridge.

Ascend a weakness through the rock band below the large snowfield, then up to the Main Divide south of The Footstool. There is a variation that links snowfields to the right of the rock band. This is a good alternative to the Couloir Route if the bergschrund conditions are not favourable. During late summer, snow can be completely absent from this face, and the rock is not worth climbing!

From the Tewaewae Glacier ascend the prominent couloir either to the south ridge, or near the summit move right up an offshoot couloir. The bergschrund at the base of the couloir is often troublesome; this route is usually cut off after early summer.

From Sefton Bivvy ascend the Stocking Glacier and cross northwards to gain the ridge where it rises from a level section. Follow the ridge directly to the summit. The rock is complete choss – avoid like the plague, unless snow covered.

Cross the East Ridge and work up the slopes of the Eugenie Glacier to reach the Main Divide, then follow up the north-east snowslopes to the summit. This is the regular descent route.

A route exists from the névé south of the Copland Pass and connects snowslopes on the west to reach the col north of the peak, then as for Main Divide Route . The ridge from the Copland Pass has also been traversed.

Direct Follow the face to the right of the Couloir Route via a shallow gully.