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Immediately right of the main rock buttress. The route lies directly under the summit. The first few pitches are relatively straightforward but steeper ground (up to 80o), including chandeliers, above provides the crux. Continue up the obvious line to the crest of the west ridge below the summit. Rappel down the Franz side on good rock bollards to a snow slope (beware of snow conditions in spring). Seven pitches.
The Balcony Line
Bruce Hasler, Dean Staples, Tarn Pilkington, Oct 1996.