South Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Aspect

South

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	The Homeowners		0m	0
P1 Tackles a wee vertical ice step on the extreme left of the face just left of the start to Noel, then curls it's way up moderate ground to the ridge. Good descent down a gulley just to the left.
	Noel		0m	0
P1 Noel Takes the buttress left of the Irvine gash. Climbed as a mixed route.
	Irvine, 5-,WI5	5-,WI5	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5- Water Ice WI5 A deep five pitch chimney left of centre. At the top sneak around to the left to avoid the overhang. Descend the gully left of the face (one rap at the bottom). (Alpine Ice 4+).
	Left Side, 4	4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 A seven pitch mixed route on the left side of the face.
	The Balcony Line, 4+	4+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ Immediately right of the main rock buttress. The route lies directly under the summit. The first few pitches are relatively straightforward but steeper ground (up to 80o), including chandeliers, above provides the crux. Continue up the obvious line to the crest of the west ridge below the summit. Rappel down the Franz side on good rock bollards to a snow slope (beware of snow conditions in spring). Seven pitches.
	The Thing, 4+,WI4	4+,WI4	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ Water Ice WI4 Direct to the left summit. Similar in difficulty to Douglas Peak (L. Couloir), but with more continuous steepness and less slogging. A five star route according to the first ascent team. Seven pitches. (Alpine Ice 4).
	Ruth/ Breitinger, 5-	5-	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5- Seven pitches of ice up to 85o (descended north gully).
	Right Side, 3+,WI3	3+,WI3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Water Ice WI3 Seven pitches. Descend into the Franz (one rap) or rap the route. (Alpine Ice 3).

Alien

Not sure if my comment on the confusion about the routes on the Sth Face of Mallory came through. They are drawn and described wrong in the Mt Cook guide and hence above.

They should read:

The Homeowners. Tackles a wee vertical ice step on the extreme left of the face just left of the start to Noel, then curls it's way up moderate ground to the ridge. Good descent down a gulley just to the left. Allan Uren, Craig Cardie, and Jeff Richards. July 2003.

Noel Takes the buttress left of the Irvine gash. Climbed as a mixed route. Brian Alder, Tony Donaldson,and Allan Uren October 2003
Irvine
Entwisle
The Balcony Line
The Thing
Ruth/Breitinger
Right side Cradock et al

Fri, 02/12/2011 - 20:00 Permalink

Attribution

Alex Palman

UUID

fe88b8b5-b197-4788-930c-fc60c28d6987