South Face

(8 routes)

From the Explorer Glacier

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Homeowners
0
Tackles a wee vertical ice step on the extreme left of the face just left of the start to Noel, then curls it's way up moderate ground to the ridge. Good descent down a gulley just to the left.
Allan Uren, Craig Cardie, and Jeff Richards. July 2003.
Noel
0
Noel Takes the buttress left of the Irvine gash. Climbed as a mixed route.
Brian Alder, Tony Donaldson,and Allan Uren October 2003
Irvine 5- WI5
0
A deep five pitch chimney left of centre. At the top sneak around to the left to avoid the overhang. Descend the gully left of the face (one rap at the bottom). (Alpine Ice 4+).
Nick Cradock, Dave Vass, Oct 1996.
Left Side 4
0
A seven pitch mixed route on the left side of the face.
John Entwisle, Ross Clapcott, Gerry Kennedy, Fiona Mackenzie, Trevor Streat, Nick Cradock, Dec 1990.
The Balcony Line 4+
0
Immediately right of the main rock buttress. The route lies directly under the summit. The first few pitches are relatively straightforward but steeper ground (up to 80o), including chandeliers, above provides the crux. Continue up the obvious line to the crest of the west ridge below the summit. Rappel down the Franz side on good rock bollards to a snow slope (beware of snow conditions in spring). Seven pitches.
Bruce Hasler, Dean Staples, Tarn Pilkington, Oct 1996.
The Thing 4+ WI4
1.02
Direct to the left summit. Similar in difficulty to Douglas Peak (L. Couloir), but with more continuous steepness and less slogging. A five star route according to the first ascent team. Seven pitches. (Alpine Ice 4).
Nick Cradock, Matt Wilkinson, S Hall, Dec 1990.
Ruth/ Breitinger 5-
0
Seven pitches of ice up to 85o (descended north gully).
M Ruth, E Breitinger, Nov 1993.
Right Side 3+ WI3
0
Seven pitches. Descend into the Franz (one rap) or rap the route. (Alpine Ice 3).
Nick Cradock and others from a guides course, 1993.
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

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UUID: 
fe88b8b5-b197-4788-930c-fc60c28d6987

Comments

Not sure if my comment on the confusion about the routes on the Sth Face of Mallory came through. They are drawn and described wrong in the Mt Cook guide and hence above.

They should read:

The Homeowners. Tackles a wee vertical ice step on the extreme left of the face just left of the start to Noel, then curls it's way up moderate ground to the ridge. Good descent down a gulley just to the left. Allan Uren, Craig Cardie, and Jeff Richards. July 2003.

Noel Takes the buttress left of the Irvine gash. Climbed as a mixed route. Brian Alder, Tony Donaldson,and Allan Uren October 2003
Irvine
Entwisle
The Balcony Line
The Thing
Ruth/Breitinger
Right side Cradock et al