Mt Humdinger

(3 routes)

From the col with Grey Peak it is an easy ascent.
The rock on the western slopes offers pleasant climbing. The first ascent from this direction was by Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2796m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.552529370000, 170.184488300000
NZMS260: 
H36 826 356
Topo50: 
BX16 726 740
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
North West Rib 3 14
1.02
The North West Rib provides 150m of sound rock climbing on red rock
Ian Whitehouse, Brin Williman, Dec 1971.
Red Planet 19 , 20 , 20 , 18 , 16 , 14 , 14
0
wire representing trad
The route takes a direct line towards & through the red pillar that leads through the roofs on the left hand side. Start. Look for a crack that leads out of of a small alcove just to the right of the red rock. Climb past the the vertical crack out of the alcove & move onto orangr textured rock. Traverse right directly under a pink, blank peice of rock and move up to belay in a crack.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mYes
 The route takes a direct line towards & through the red pillar that leads through the roofs on the left hand side. Start. Look for a crack that leads out of of a small alcove just to the right of the red rock. Climb past the the vertical crack out of the alcove & move onto orangr textured rock. Traverse right directly under a pink, blank peice of rock and move up to belay in a crack.
2200mNo
 Traverse left and up the slab. Move to the lefthand crack (watch the hollow flakes). Pass through the steepest ground on the right crack before moving left into a crack/ corner belay.
3200mNo
 Step right onto the pillarand climb through techical ground heading first left then right & up to belay in cracks.
4180mNo
 climb up the dark coloured groove to the base of a clean left facing corner & big belay ledge.
5160mNo
 Climb the corner & belay above the top of the tower.
6140mNo
 Trend left & towards the left side of the hole/ cave above the belay just beyond this.
7140mNo
 Climb up to the ledge.
Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken. Dec 2011
Kahu 18 , 21 , 17 , 17 , 14 , 14
0
wire representing trad
The route take the right side of the face and passes through the roof on the Rh-Side of the rectangular feature on it. Climb the crack & belay under the Lh-facing corner.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mYes
 The route take the right side of the face and passes through the roof on the Rh-Side of the rectangular feature on it. Climb the crack & belay under the Lh-facing corner.
2210mNo
 Climb the triple cracks & the Lh- facing corner. From the top of the tower step left & climb through the bulge.
3170mNo
 Climb up, then right to gain the Lh-trending ramp. Follow this then climb the chimney before breaking left past the orange block.
4170mNo
 Follow the break left, then head right & up onto clean orange rock. Belay on a flat spot.
5140mNo
 Climb up on easy ground heading right of the big hole/ cave above.
6140mNo
 Follow the Rh- Trending breakto the top of the light coloured headwall & find a bolted rap anchor.
Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken. Dec 2011
Attribution: 
Alex Palman Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken

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