Type
Altitude
2759m
Part of
Despite being a relatively small peak, Mt Alack is fairly steep, with no simple way off. The easiest descent is to scramble/pitch down either the North West Ridge or South West Ridge. If this idea makes you squeamish, go as far down either ridge as you feel comfortable, then abseil down the West Face to the Cleves Glacier. In winter, with two ropes, abseiling the south face on V-threads is usually the best option.
Over the years several ice routes have been climbed on the South Face. Who actually climbed them first is unclear, although most are claimed by Nick Cradock. The moderate angled snow on the far left of the face has been used many times as access to or from the South West Ridge.
Lat/lon
POINT (170.19384384 -43.53983818)
Topo50
BX16 733 754
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
11.49 | North West Ridge | 3,II | ||||
11.50 | The TV Slab | 17 | 80m | |||
11.51 | South West Ridge | 3,II | ||||
11.52 | Alack Attack | 5+,III | ||||
11.53 | Southern Gully | 4,III | ||||
11.54 | Sharp | 5,III | ||||
11.55 | Blunt | 5+,III | ||||
Frank | 5+,III |
Comments
This place appears in
Attribution
Alex Palman (2001)
Rob Frost (2018)
Rob Frost (2018)
UUID
ab18e5ed-a740-47b7-8eed-db052d25c802