Mt Alack

(3 routes)

All the ridges, except the North Ridge, which is reportedly very loose, provide pleasant short climbs from Pioneer Hut.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934
George Harris, G Hasler, T Choate, Ian McGregor, Aug 1966.
South Face
Over the years several short ice routes have been climbed. Who actually climbed – and recorded them – first, is somewhat unclear. Here are a couple:

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2759m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.539838180000, 170.193843840000
NZMS260: 
H36 833 370
Topo50: 
BX16 733 754
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
The TV Slab 16
1.02
A steep slab of rock, west of Alack, above the Cleves Glacier, offers good crag climbing. It gained notoriety and a name when Graeme Dingle and others climbed it for a TV crew during the 70’s (one pitch; crux 15/16).
Graeme Dingle and others
Southern Gully
0
Six pitches of 50–60° ice.
Paul Wopereis, A Taylor, February 1985
Alack Attack 4+
0
A direct seven pitch line to the summit. The first three pitches are on the icefields and the next four are on the upper wall. A good short technical climb that involves some mixed ground (Alpine Ice 4).
Nick Cradock, A Marquis, December 1996
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

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