Place info
Mt Alack
(3 routes)
All the ridges, except the North Ridge, which is reportedly very loose, provide pleasant short climbs from Pioneer Hut.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934
George Harris, G Hasler, T Choate, Ian McGregor, Aug 1966.
South Face
Over the years several short ice routes have been climbed. Who actually climbed – and recorded them – first, is somewhat unclear. Here are a couple:
- 2759m
Altitude
All the ridges, except the North Ridge, which is reportedly very loose, provide pleasant short climbs from Pioneer Hut.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934
George Harris, G Hasler, T Choate, Ian McGregor, Aug 1966.
South Face
Over the years several short ice routes have been climbed. Who actually climbed – and recorded them – first, is somewhat unclear. Here are a couple:
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
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16
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A steep slab of rock, west of Alack, above the Cleves Glacier, offers good crag climbing. It gained notoriety and a name when Graeme Dingle and others climbed it for a TV crew during the 70’s (one pitch; crux 15/16). Graeme Dingle and others |
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Six pitches of 50–60° ice. Paul Wopereis, A Taylor, February 1985 |
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4+
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A direct seven pitch line to the summit. The first three pitches are on the icefields and the next four are on the upper wall. A good short technical climb that involves some mixed ground (Alpine Ice 4). Nick Cradock, A Marquis, December 1996 |
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