On the left side (looking up) of the South West Ridge of Alack, above the Cleves Glacier, is a beautiful proud slab with a prominent hand crack near the top. It gained notoriety and a name when Graeme Dingle and Murray Jones climbed it for a TV crew during the 70s. Recently, Nick Cradock added a couple of bolt belays making this a must do route.
Pitch 1: climb 40m on good rock (grade 16) to a double bolt belay. Pitch 2: scramble up loose, but not obnoxious rock, past one bolt. You can use this as a runner but it was primarily placed for abseiling. Pitch 3: the TV Crack. A 40m, grade 17 hand crack that requires some bigger natural protection (#2 to #3 Camalots). Stonking. Double-bolt abseil rings at the top. Two ropes are required for abseiling off.
Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, 1970
- P1
- 16
- 40m
Pitch 1: climb 40m on good rock (grade 16) to a double bolt belay.
- P2
Scramble up loose but not obnoxious rock, past one bolt. You can use this as a runner but it was primarily placed for abseiling.
- P3
- 17
- 40m
The TV Crack. A 40m, grade 17 hand crack that requires some bigger natural protection (#2 to #3 Camalots). Stonking. Double-bolt abseil rings at the top. Two ropes are required for abseiling off.