|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
|Gain the hanging glacier but start 100m left of the Direct. Sustained slab climbing up irregular crack systems leads eventually to a prominent point four pitches left and below the summit. A fine climb with crux pitches of grade 15.|
Brian Carter, Peter Gough, Jan 1973.
Direct to the summit: Marty Beare, Craig Hamilton, ~1981.