Strauchon Face

(4 routes)

Rock routes that are accessed out of the Strauchon Glacier.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Compressor Route 5 16 1400m
33 pitches
Peter Dickson, Mar 1991.
Direct 5 15 1500m
From the lower Strauchon Glacier gain the hanging glacier on the face via a narrow gully to the right of the glacier to reach a shingle rib, or use the Direttissima start up the buttress. Cross to the glacier and start 50m to the left of the Dilemma-Unicorn corner. Climb easily up to a huge arch and tend left into a left-facing corner. The corner runs all the way up the face, passing beside an overhang near the top, to finish on the ridge right of the summit. A sustained ~30 pitch climb with crux pitches of 15. Anchors are sometimes hard to find.
Fred From, Murray Judge, Nic Kagan, Nov 1978.
Carter-Gough 5 15
Gain the hanging glacier but start 100m left of the Direct. Sustained slab climbing up irregular crack systems leads eventually to a prominent point four pitches left and below the summit. A fine climb with crux pitches of grade 15.
Brian Carter, Peter Gough, Jan 1973.
Misty Mountain Hop 5
Commencing on the left side of the hanging glacier ascend directly up the slabs left of the Carter-Gough route to reach the ridge running north-west from the summit. Once on the ridge, climb seven pitches to the summit.
John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Feb 1983.
Alex Palman

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