Strauchon Face

(4 routes)

Rock routes that are accessed out of the Strauchon Glacier.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Compressor Route 5 16 1400m
33 pitches
Peter Dickson, Mar 1991.
Direct 5 15 1500m
From the lower Strauchon Glacier gain the hanging glacier on the face via a narrow gully to the right of the glacier to reach a shingle rib, or use the Direttissima start up the buttress. Cross to the glacier and start 50m to the left of the Dilemma-Unicorn corner. Climb easily up to a huge arch and tend left into a left-facing corner. The corner runs all the way up the face, passing beside an overhang near the top, to finish on the ridge right of the summit. A sustained ~30 pitch climb with crux pitches of 15. Anchors are sometimes hard to find.
Fred From, Murray Judge, Nic Kagan, Nov 1978.
Carter-Gough 5 15
Gain the hanging glacier but start 100m left of the Direct. Sustained slab climbing up irregular crack systems leads eventually to a prominent point four pitches left and below the summit. A fine climb with crux pitches of grade 15.
Brian Carter, Peter Gough, Jan 1973.
Misty Mountain Hop 5
Commencing on the left side of the hanging glacier ascend directly up the slabs left of the Carter-Gough route to reach the ridge running north-west from the summit. Once on the ridge, climb seven pitches to the summit.
John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Feb 1983.
Alex Palman

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