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Wigley Glacier Route

First ascent
Trevor and Barbara Chinn, Noel Read (up snow slopes from the Callery Valley), December 1962
Located on

  • P1

From the upper Gunn River, head up tussock slopes towards a buttressed spur on the true left of the stream draining the Wigley Glacier. A steep but negotiable gully (requiring scrambling on bedrock), about 100 metres before the Wigley River issues from a slit gorge, leads through bluffs to rocky knolls above and gravel flats further up the valley. Lower ice shown on the map below 1600 metres has now largely gone. From I35 958525 / BW16 858 909, gain access to the upper Wigley Glacier via a diagonal ledge that doesn’t look promising from below on the true right of the icefall. This gravel ledge leads easily up beside the icefall to where the ice and upper glacier can be accessed. Crevasses may make this more difficult with ice recession and later in summer. From the upper glacier, snow slopes lead to the ridge and the peak is a bit beyond that.