A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter.
There is a marked track to Unwin Crag & takes about 20 mins. Immediately behind Unwin Hut cross the stile and diagonal towards the fence running up towards the watertanks. Aim for a gap in the matagouri. There is an orange marker where you can cross the fence. Head towards the base of the hill fence to the base of the hill. After about 100m there is a large rock at the base of a vegetated gully and a large cairn. Head up the faint gully then work up and R. Traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up. The tape mentioned on the photo does not exist.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Fringe Benefit, 16 | 16 | 28m | 9 |
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Crux bolt 6 to 7 up smooth slab between edge & crack: This climb has a DBB lower than the other 2 routes. |
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| 2 | 2Whispering Grass, 16 | 16 | 25m | 9 |
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Crux trend left at 7th bolt (Ray) but other people seem to find crux around 3rd bolt. |
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| 3 | 3Pinot, 15 | 15 | 23m | 8 |
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Easiest of the 3 routes. Bigger and more postive features. |
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| 4 | 4Secret Squirrel Arete, 15 | 15 | 54m | 10 |
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DB anchors. The rap from the top of P1 is 30m.
Starting in the centre of the wall trend left towards the arete on a variety of side pulls and flakes. The start can seep but you can clip the bolt and then start up further left.
A short pitch on easier climbing towards and on the arete and a spacious belay ledge. |
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Images
