Sawyer's Crag | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

900m

Part of

Sawyer's Crag is a sub-alpine crag located above Sawyer Stream, behind Unwin Lodge, at Aoraki Mount Cook
National Park. The crag starts from the stream at about 740 metres altitude and tops out on Hoophorn Spur at 1000 metres. It faces north and catches the sun.
Most of the routes are bolted, but take natural gear for additional anchors and placements on some routes.
There have been some fixed ropes left in place, use at your own peril.
There is plenty of scope for more routes, both natural and bolted.
Note that this area is a domestic water catchment area and must not be polluted.
It is possible to scramble between the top of "Paper Tiger", past the "Joggers' Special" wall, to the climbs
centered around "Bone China".

Aspect

North East

Lat/lon

-43.760426,170.108732, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BY15 673 507

Approach

To gain access to Sawyer's Crag, walk up the vehicle access track behind Unwin Lodge past the watertanks. Follow the water intake pipe until you can enter the bush just above the historic "A" frame from the old power scheme, follow the track up to the remains of the old pipe-line bridge. Cross the stream onto the true right, by using the rocks down-stream from the bridge. Climb "Pipeline Rib" to the left of the bridge.
Above the rock rib, ascend the grass slopes to the crag.
There is also a steep access route directly above the end of the bridge, to the top of "Pipeline Rib".
The track starts from the bridge cable attachment point on the true R side of the stream. It was recut and flagging tape added 10/4/22. A replacement handline was added then too. The track is flagged above the handline as well. It gets overgrown very quickly.
If Sawyer Stream is too high to cross safely then access can be made by crossing the stream near the gravel pit and ascending Hoophorn Spur via the grass slopes. You can then abseil down the crag with double ropes from the chain anchors on top of "Jogger's Special".
Warning:
DO NOT ATTEMPT THE GRASS SLOPES WHEN WET!
BE PREPARED TO FIND YOUR OWN ANCHORS AND GEAR PLACEMENTS.
TAKE A HELMET.
CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Pipeline Rib, 14	14	45m		0
P1 14 45m Trad Access route that follows the rib above the old pipeline bridge to the beech trees. 2 pitches on natural gear. Not a beginner lead! 1st pitch starts from the ledge above the stream and steps left onto the rib. Continue up the rib to the trees to belay. P2 Trad 2nd pitch heads up the corner to the left, through the trees. Belay from the trees at top.
2	2Don't Forget the Kids, 13	13	0m		0
P1 13 Trad Follow extreme left line on the crag with natural gear.
3	3Don't Forget the Guide Book, 13	13	0m		0
P1 13 Trad Continue up the arete above "Don't Forget the Kids", to the very top of the crag, with natural gear. Be careful with the loose scree at the top. Descent can be made by double-rope abseil from the top of "Jogger's Special". Otherwise take your walking shoes and walk off the back, past the tarn, over the fence and down the steep grass slopes towards Unwin Lodge.
4	4Access Route, 18	18	25m	2	0
P1 18 25m 2 Trad Climb the slanting slab past two bolts with natural gear between, then walk up ramp to belay chain at base of "Paper Tiger". Has been climbed straight up onto the slab using the first bolt and natural gear. (work in progress, bolting incomplete)
5	5Paper Tiger, 17	17	25m	2	0
P1 17 25m 2 Trad Climb through the scoop in the obvious overhang and follow right-most line on slab above. Bolted. 2 bolt anchor at the top.
6	6Jogger's Special, 16	16	45m	4	0
P1 16 45m 4 Trad Follow line of spaced bolts up three slabs separated by small overhangs. Bolted. Chain anchor at the top. Beware of loose scree over the top. Long ropes required.
7	7Foxglove, 18	18	20m	4	0
P1 18 20m 4 Trad Shares belay at its base with "Bone China". The bolted left line up the slab. 2 bolt anchor at the top.
8	8Bone China, 17	17	25m	8	0
P1 17 25m 8 The bolted right-hand line from the belay, following breaks up the slab. Trend right after second bolt. Chain anchor at the top.
9	9Shark Walk, 17	17	50m		0
P1 17 50m Trad Shark Walk (16/17) 50m The slab up the extreme right-hand end of the crag. Natural gear. The 1st pitch is accessible by abseil from base of "Bone China". 1st pitch to get back to the level of "Bone China" start. P2 Trad 2nd pitch either head straight up cracks or use them to protect the arete on the right. Shares top anchor with "Bone China".
10	10Look and See, 12	12	0m		0
P1 12 Trad Trad route that steps right, past a small cave, and then up the buttress.

Images

Comments

Attribution

From the mini guide in the NZAC Website. By Grant Pearson

UUID

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