The orange coloured wall with a small overlap crossing it, above the Crimea Wall and above and right of Javelin Wall.
Approach as for Javelin and Crimea Walls.
Start up the LHS of the scree below the Twin Cracks wall. Follow track up until you below a against a smooth wall - follow the track across R and up ( hand lines) until you are on the spur again continue past the turnoff to the Javelin Wall and instead of moving R to reach the Crimea Wall climb over a small rocky knob (short handline). A rough track with some fixed rope heads up to end below the middle of the Orange Wall.
NB The description in Rock Deluxe South should be avoided as it is about twice as long as the new one.
DESCENT: Back the same way or head to the left of the wall and follow the old track into the stream bed - descend down this with some downclimbing or abseil options and eventually you will arrive at the bottom of the Javelin Wall.
ACCESS NOTE 8.8.20
Sometime before June 2020 there was a large rock fall off the back of Magic Messiah and down the access route to the Orange Wall demolishing the lower hand lines. Some rockfall continued down the gully towards Twin Cracks and some jumped the ridge and went across the traverse track to Javelin Wall. Be careful you don't kick boulders down as you go up/down via the handlines.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BE | BEThe Bitter End, 20 | 20 | 15m | 6 |
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Start where the approach trail rounds the lowest point of the wall. Up a short wall and rock over onto the slab then rock on up. |
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| LL | LLLemon & Lime, 16 | 16 | 10m | 4 |
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There are two short slab routes Lemon and Lime and Mandarin left of an access rope. Best approach is from left end of crag. |
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| Mn | MnMandarin, 16 | 16 | 10m | 4 |
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Two short pitches with interesting moves. (Access gully with fixed rope) |
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| Sq | SqSquirt, 20 | 20 | 12m | 3 |
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A short techo problem. Tom took a few falls above the top bolt on the first ascent. |
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| Ja | Ja Jaffa, 20 | 20 | 18m | 5 |
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Some fine crimpy climbing that eases off at the top. |
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| Bs | BsBittersweet, 19 | 19 | 22m | 7 |
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Positivley thin. |
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| FS | FSFreshly Squeezed, 17 | 17 | 26m | 8 |
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Climb through the weakness and then through the overlap, finishing delicately towards the top. |
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| Ct | CtClementine, 19 | 19 | 28m | 9 |
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Trends left to avoid loose looking blocks at the overlap. |
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| OM | OMThe Orange Men, 21 | 21 | 30m | 14 |
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Some fine climbing up the seam to a tricky smear and step through at the roof. |
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| PB | PBPeeled Back, 21 | 21 | 30m | 9 |
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Tricky moves through three overlaps. |
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| Unnamed, 19 | 19 | 45m | 12 |
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Long route on RH S of red wall crossing two overlaps and diagonals to the upper R of the wall. Start just left of trees at a bolt and chain link then follow seam to roof which is pulled on good grips. |
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| RD | RDRodeo Drive, 21 | 21 | 10 |
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Found on the wall behind and above the Orange Wall which can be accessed from
continue up gully from Javelin Wall past the Orange wall, scramble to base then some broken ground to a fine finger crack and spacious ledge.
A long and varied slab pitch to Rap station, 60m rap to base. |
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| Bucking Alley, 21 | 21 | 9 |
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To the left of Rodeo Drive. A short 6-7 bolt 16 provides access to the ledge where the pitch starts. |
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Images
