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Crimea Wall

Type
Sector
Altitude
793m
Part of
Sebastopol Bluffs

The rougher looking wall below and right from Orange wall. Approach up the gully left of Twin cracks as for Javelin starting on lower left of scree. Follow track around to R , up some handline until back on the spur directly across from Javelin Wall. Track to Javelin heads L at this point and you should see the Crimea Wall up and R. Continue up a few more m the duck into gully on R, arriving at L end of the Crimea Wall. There are several newer routes not yet added here including 1 to the R of Battle Fatique (Judge) about 21.

Walktime
15
Aspect
North East
Lat/lon
-43.75062,170.11098, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BY15 674 518
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
SK SKShell Shock, 17 17 12m 5
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 12m
  • 5

Near the left arete, add a couple of grades if you avoid the arete and stay on the face.
Sh ShShrapnel, 18 18 10m 3
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • 3

Takes a couple of small wires after the first bolt.
 Charlie Brown, 16 16 36m 12
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 36m
  • 12

Start beside a small Totara tree a few m left of the 2 ring bolt anchor for Back in the USSR. Pitch 1 finishes just left of the first belay of BITUSSR.

  • P2
  • 12

Step slightly right at start, move up and onto arete, finish next to second belay of BITUSSR.

BITUSSR BITUSSRBack in the USSR, 14 14 38m 6
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 20m
  • 6
  • Trad

From the double ring anchor at ground level climb the arete past 2B to natural pro section then up the face above.

  • P2
  • 13
  • 18m
  • 2
  • Trad

From the belay follow the cracks above to a bolt runner. Move up and L to belay ledge
HA HAHoly Alliance, 15 15 35m 8
0
  • P1
  • 13
  • 20m
  • 8

Start as for BITUSSR move R and up into R facing corner to DBB.

  • P2
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 6

Through the overlap and follow the face above. his pitch is quite good.
Se SeThe Siege of Sebastapol, 16 16 27m 7
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 27m
  • 7
CR CRCry Me a River, 16 16 0m
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad
CL CLThe Charge of the Light Brigade, 19 19 0m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 7

sustained steep slab on small crimps
TH THTe Heke, 15 15 0m
0
  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Follows a jagged crack line to the left of the bolts. Shares the belay to L.

BF BFBattle Fatigue, 17 17 0m
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad
 Un-named, 21 21 0m
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

Starts behind tree to R of Battle Fatigue following R edge of slab to finish at the same anchor.

SC SCSantas Chimney extension, 18 18 45m 9
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 25m
  • 9
  • Trad

This was originally the continuation pitches of Santa Chimney but it is probably worth treating as a stand alone climb since it is easily accessed from the top end of the Crimea Wall.Up the curving line to overlap then hard moves to ledge. 9B

  • P2
  • 20m
  • 2
  • Trad

Up slab to thin crack, wires and small cams. From the top follow track through scrub across and down to Orange wall. 2B

Images

Comments
This place appears in
Rock Deluxe South, 2014
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Topo by Dave Brash, Photo Topo Simon Middlemass
UUID
 
ca74f614-ee1e-4b47-9897-b54c31954cd5