From the Grand Plateau, gain the base of Mt Dixon’s South East Ridge via any of the routes listed under Route 4.66, then drop onto the upper Haast Glacier—an abseil or two may be required. Alternatively, if crevasse conditions allow, climb to this point from the Haast Ridge or Freshfield Glacier access routes. From this point, head diagonally up under the Dixon Ridge on the Haast Glacier, weaving around crevasses as necessary. If a schrund cuts Pioneer Pass off, Governor Col may still provide access—it’s usually more reliable.
The Fox Glacier side is straightforward, but watch for orographic cloud (‘jungle mist’) that can engulf the névé. This is not an easy packing route and traverses a number of steep snow slopes that are prone to avalanches. In recent years, large areas of bedrock have become exposed in late summer along this route, increasing the level of difficulty and risk of rockfall. See photo on p.174 (Chapter 5).
Grade III, 2+
Pioneer Pass 2759m/ Governor Col 2834m
