North East Ridge

A bold route used on the first ascent of Sefton. From Sefton Biv, head up the rib behind the bivvy to where a broad bench runs across the top of the Huddleston Glacier. Negotiate your way into the upper Huddleston and continue up to access the Main Divide near Tuckett Col.
From Tuckett Col, ascend three prominent steps in the ridge to the summit. The upper step can be avoided by traversing to the right across a snow shelf to gain the upper west ridge (but then you’d be avoiding the best climbing). The rock is appallingly loose in the lower sections but improves dramatically towards the top. In 1924, Frank Milne and Harold Porter ascended and descended the ridge in four hours and reported that the upper step provided terrific rock climbing. The ridge is now rarely climbed due to a lack of enthusiasm for rotten rock.