Mt Green

Type

Mountain

Altitude

2837m

Part of

Main Divide

Caption

Mt Green, Mt Walter and Elie de Beaumont, December 2010

Rights credit

David Poulsen

Lat/lon

-43.495147,170.311663, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX16 826 807

Accessed from

Spencer Glacier

Haupapa Tasman Glacier

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
5.30	5.30South West Ridge, III,3+	III,3+	0m	1.02
A varied and enjoyable climb, best enjoyed on a sunny day in early summer. From Climbers Col, climb the first rock step direct, then follow a horizontal arête and up the second step to where the ridge flattens. Then up a blocky ridge to the summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3+
5.31	5.31Little South Face, III,4+	III,4+	0m	0
From the basin below Climbers Col, take the gully in the centre of the face and then, depending on the condition of the upper face, join either the South West Ridge or South Buttress. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 4+
5.32	5.32South Buttress, IV,4	IV,4	0m	0
From the basin below Climbers Col head right and gain the prominent rib. Move up steep loose rock until some grey slabs (the Cod Piece) are met halfway up. Then continue up steep loose ground onto the upper part of the South West Ridge. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4
5.33	5.33Left Hand Trinity, IV,5	IV,5	0m	0
Take the obvious deep-cut couloir on the left hand side of the big south face. First climbed in seven pitches, with occasional 80-degree sections. The couloir tops out on the South West Ridge three or four pitches from the summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 5
5.34	5.34East Face, III,3	III,3	0m	0
From the plateau below Divers Col, climb a sustained 40 degree snowslope up the east face where schrunds allow. This or the North East Ridge offer the best descent from Mt Green. First ascent unknown. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3
5.35	5.35North East Ridge, III,3	III,3	0m	0
From Divers Col, ascend mixed snow and rock on the Main Divide. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3
	The Pink Route, 17,4	17,4	0m	0
P1 17 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 On the North West Face. From the slopes leading down from Divers Col to the Spencer Glacier, ascend the rock face leading directly to the summit. Ten pitches
	West Ridge, 3	3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 From the Spencer Glacier climb up onto the Edwards Glacier névé below Climbers Col and head left onto the ridge. Follow the snowslopes and rock ribs to the summit. The ridge could also be gained from the slopes below Divers Col.
West Face	West FaceEaton's run			0
Access is via an excellent gully from the upper Stevenson Glacier. From the upper Edwards Neve climb through rock band on the left of the face to the steep snowfield. Then tend right on the snowfield to the base of the rock of the South West ridge. Climb into the odvious break and leads right ar first and will eventually bring you to the upper section of the South West ridge ant onto the summit.
	Chocolate Cake			0
Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly snice with a little bit of rock/water ice. An engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow. The crux second pitch (WI4+) goes directly up a smear of steep ice - an amazing pitch of alpine climbing. Approached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Greens east face.

This place appears in

Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)

UUID

79780af3-fafe-44ad-a9cf-0865fa539911

Routes

Images