A special climb. Approach this ridge either from the access route between the lower Spencer and lower Burton Glaciers, or from the lower Burton via a stream bed and couloir on the true left of the tip of the Johannes Glacier.
The first ascent party departed the Burton Ridge at about 2700m and followed snow leads out onto the great slab above the Montague Glacier, and then ascended the final 100m of the Montague Spur. The slab is completely covered in snow in early summer and completely bare by late summer – expect anything if you’re there in December-January. Most parties have descended the same way, but it could also be possible to descend back to the Times Glacier via the Elie-Walter Col, depending on the season.
January 1963, P Duncan, H Fairburn, H Gifford, J H Leonard, D Medland, Bev Price and I Simpson used the Montague Glacier to gain the upper Johannes Glacier and the upper Burton Ridge.
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3
