Standard Route

This col is not accessed often, and the eastern slopes have been described as ‘ugly and dangerous’ in late summer conditions. Despite this, in early summer it appears to provide good scope for a difficult transalpine crossing to Harper Rock or the Douglas névé.
This route begins from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne Glacier. Ascend northwards across the glacier under Sharks Teeth to reach Brunner Col. The Donne Glacier has retreated considerably in recent years, and by midsummer most of this route is on glacier-worn rock.