This face is big, and not often viewed. Unless you’ve got an exceptional memory, take a photo of it with you on your climb.
East Face of the Nuns’s Veil from Pinnacle Stream (foreshortened)
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 7.16 | 7.16Curb Your Enthusiasm, IV,5,17 | IV,5,17 | 0m | ||||
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The leftmost of the three prominent buttresses. Begins with two pitches of grade 17 climbing on good rock, then most of the remaining 15 pitches are on rock of “less than good quality” with little protection and poor belays. The crux is the top pitch of the central rock step. The first ascent team descended the Nuns Veil Glacier after a lesson in navigation.
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| 7.17 | 7.17The Far Side, V,6,16 | V,6,16 | 0m | ||||
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A visionary line that takes the impressive central buttress of the east face and requires commitment. There is plenty of room for variations. The first ascentionists reported 700m of quality rock (16 pitches) with a crux of 16. A subsequent party has described the route as sustained grade 16 with crux pitches of 18, reporting “variable rock” and “a few moments of brilliance”. A party that completed a variation finish to the left of the original line may have experienced suboptimal routefinding due to climbing the last five pitches in the dark.
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| 7.18 | 7.18North East Buttress, IV,4+,15 | IV,4+,15 | 0m | ||||
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A great looking feature. The buttress is broad at the base with a number of possible routes, although higher up it narrows to a defined crest. 17 pitches. The rock is reportedly “pretty good”.
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