Natural pro requiredResolution climbs the big corner running all the way up the buttress from the base of the Bowie Couloir to the crest of Zurbriggen’s Ridge. This corner line would be a spectacularly good mixed route and the whole buttress offers excellent scope for further climbing.
From the cave, gain the hanging corner and short arete to reach the base of the main corner.
Gear: Approx. 7 cams finger to fist, a full set of nuts, 1KB & 1LA (optional), draws, full alpine kit to continue up mountain or double ropes and extensive tat to rappel buttress.
- P1
- 14
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 6
- 30m
- Trad
Up hanging corner to small alcove of dark rock.
- P2
- 15
- 30m
- Trad
Work up red wall and arete to climb hanging corner on right to big ledge. (Pitches 1 and 2 could be combined.)
- P3
- 14
- 60m
- Trad
Climb right hand corner then continue up ledges and walls left of the main corner
- P4
- 16
- 50m
- Trad
Slabs and walls of pink rock left of the corner. Belay near the arete below a steep wall.
- P5
- 18
- 30m
- Trad
Traverse up and right towards corner. Climb overhang into groove left of main corner (which is blocked by loose flakes).
- P6
- 18
- 60m
- Trad
Up easy ground then left below roof in main corner into S ubsidiary corner (snow). Weave up pink wall (~20m) with cracks to cross arete and make slopey traverse back to main corner. Belay off hand and fist size cams.
- P7
- 12
- 90m
- Trad
Up nice corner, then long chimney; finally scramble to belay below steepening in corner. (There are potential belays in this pitch but they are not very sheltered.)
- P8
- 16
- 30m
- Trad
Climb corner (or wall on right—corner may be wet) to awkward belay below next overhang. Piton high on left. (This belay is dry but the ropes will get wet—best to combine pitches 8 and 9 to get past wet section.)
- P9
- 17
- 30m
- Trad
The Waterfall pitch—climb overhang using chockstones and continue up corner and right wall to a stance on the left.
- P10
- 13
- 30m
- Trad
Up corner to gain obvious diagonal weakness heading up across right wall. Belay on flake/pedestal below smooth, steep wall with cracks heading diagonally up left and right. (Pitches 10 and 11 could be combined.)
- P11
- 19
- 40m
- Trad
Tricky moves up right leading crack and the wall beyond to crest. Continue up easy arete of buttress to snow.
