Three routes climb good quality rock from the bottom left edge of the Bowie Couloir to the crest of the Zurbriggen Ridge. There are two major full-height aretes separated by a large corner. At the base of the large corner system there is a short arete with a sheltered cave underneath.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| E | EEndeavour, IV,6,18 | IV,6,18 | 460m | ||||
|
The left-most of the two full-height aretes. Gain the arete left of the cave and follow it, working around some hanging corners to bypass an overhang at half height. From a belay below the large roof near the top, follow good cracks left of the crest in a spectacular position. Sustained climbing on excellent rock.
|
|||||||
| R | RResolution, IV,6,19 | IV,6,19 | 480m |  |
|||
|
Resolution climbs the big corner running all the way up the buttress from the base of the Bowie Couloir to the crest of Zurbriggen’s Ridge. This corner line would be a spectacularly good mixed route and the whole buttress offers excellent scope for further climbing.
Up hanging corner to small alcove of dark rock.
Work up red wall and arete to climb hanging corner on right to big ledge. (Pitches 1 and 2 could be combined.)
Climb right hand corner then continue up ledges and walls left of the main corner
Slabs and walls of pink rock left of the corner. Belay near the arete below a steep wall.
Traverse up and right towards corner. Climb overhang into groove left of main corner (which is blocked by loose flakes).
Up easy ground then left below roof in main corner into S ubsidiary corner (snow). Weave up pink wall (~20m) with cracks to cross arete and make slopey traverse back to main corner. Belay off hand and fist size cams.
Up nice corner, then long chimney; finally scramble to belay below steepening in corner. (There are potential belays in this pitch but they are not very sheltered.)
Climb corner (or wall on right—corner may be wet) to awkward belay below next overhang. Piton high on left. (This belay is dry but the ropes will get wet—best to combine pitches 8 and 9 to get past wet section.)
The Waterfall pitch—climb overhang using chockstones and continue up corner and right wall to a stance on the left.
Up corner to gain obvious diagonal weakness heading up across right wall. Belay on flake/pedestal below smooth, steep wall with cracks heading diagonally up left and right. (Pitches 10 and 11 could be combined.)
Tricky moves up right leading crack and the wall beyond to crest. Continue up easy arete of buttress to snow. |
|||||||
| PD | PDPink Dream, IV,6+,19 | IV,6+,19 | 500m | |
|||
|
Gain the major, right arete and generally follow it to the crest. Sustained.
Takes the arete R of Resolution on excellent rock. |
|||||||
