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Mt Jervois

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2630m
Part of
Main Divide

When iced up the south-west face of Jervois looks to have plenty of new route potential. Some short crag-style routes have been developed on the rock buttresses near Centennial Hut by Peter Taw and John Entwisle. The first route (crux 18) is situated south-west of the hut, on the third buttress from the left as you face it. The second route (crux 20) is on the distinctive red buttress north-east of the hut, and north of Jervois. This route takes a groove.

Lat/lon
-43.51313994,170.2377288, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX16 767 785
Accessed from
Franz Josef Glacier Kā Roimata-a-Hinehukatere
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Main Divide 0m
0
  • P1

Easy scrambling on the northern Divide ridge. The southern Divide ridge is steeper and has good rock.
 North West Ridge, 2+ 2+ 0m
1.02
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

Follow the ridge above Centennial Hut over two distinct gendarmes and onto the summit. Good rock. An excellent warm-up before breakfast.

 Team Piha, 3- 3- 0m
2.01

Climb two pitches up the big snow ramp on the SW aspect to the ridge (about
50-60-degrees alpine ice but likely conditions dependent). Travel eastwards
along the ridge toward the summit for about one rope length. There can be a
short, very narrow and exposed section near the summit where care will need
to be taken. From here is less than a full rope length to the summit, from
memory.
Descend via the north side, 4 abseils from memory, possibly 5. Be aware of
the 'schrund when returning to the neve.
Excellent intro route to the area for progressing mountaineers. A fun half
day out.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
b7455d7a-3b9f-4435-a46d-3b49c4fd9cb5