On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'.
This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
- 100m
Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.
- P2
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 4
- Mixed M4
- 60m
Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.
- P3
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 4+
- Water Ice WI3
- Mixed M4
- 60m
Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay
- P4
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
- Water Ice WI2
- 55m
Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur
- P5
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 5+
- Mixed M5
- 60m
Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.
- P6
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3
- 70m
Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m
- P7
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3
- 40m
Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.
