Mt Williams

Ascend the slopes above the Hopkins River to reach the Williams - Percy Smith Col. One short steep pitch followed by a sidle on the Landsborough side, provides access to the rocky ridge leading to the summit.

Mt Williams is frequently climbed from the valley floor, beginning from near Erceg Hut. Cross the river and gain height on the face to join the south ridge near the summit.

A lengthy climb from the Hopkins Valley and a high camp is likely to be necessary if the ridge is followed all the way. Gain height along the sharp and broken ridge until travel on the slopes above the Thomson Stream provides quicker travel. Ascend a couloir south east of the peak and grapple with some difficult rock to reach the top. The route is easiest to climb with solid snow cover. An alternative approach is to gain the upper Thomson Valley and follow it until a moderate slope provides access to gain the south ridge, thus avoiding traversing several gendarmes on the ridge. Access to the upper Thomson Valley is gained by following the marked track from the Hopkins valley beginning at H37, GR 590 977, through the beech forest, traversing the pleasant terrace 100-200m above the stream on the true left. Head up toward Mt Williams’ south ridge just before the pond in the upper Thomson is reached.

From a camp near the tarn in the head of Baker Stream follow the glacier and circle up the north face to the summit.

Access to the face is via the true left side of Thompson Stream starting from just below the terminal lake. Climb the face on reasonable quality rock to gain the ridge about 100m south of the summit. Descent is via the south ridge back to the glacier visible on the right of the photo. There is adequate protection for pitching. Soloed in around an hour by the first accensionist.

From the Williams/Percy Smith Col, traverse into the basin west of the divide. Pick up the NW ridge at a convenient spot and follow it directly to the summit. The difficulties can be overcome by traverses to the west. Rock is generally good. 6+ pitches, with most of the difficulties experienced on the earlier pitches. Descent is via the divide ridge before dropping onto the western snow basin.