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South Face

First ascent
Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, November 1934
Located on

"This face - really the neve of the Baker Glacier - is remarkable in that it
not only feeds the Baker but also sends down avalanches to the Elcho Glacier
on the other side of the Divide. At the head of the ice face a pleasant
interlude was provided by turning the overhanging lip of a schrund, after
which a short climb on slabby rocks brought us to the summit of Mt Ward at
9.30 a.m." Scott Russell, Christopher Johnson, New Zealand Alpine Journal,
Mt Ward is a dominant peak in the valley and the south face amongst the most
enticing climbs. From Elcho Col sidle past Mts Baker and Dundas before
cramponing up the steepening south face. One crevasse bisects the upper part
of the Baker Glacier. A steep long pitch up a rocky gully leads to a low
point on the summit ridge 300 m west of the high point.
A variation on this climb is to travel leftward after crossing the crevasse
on the face and climb a 2-3 pitch rock buttress to reach the ridge crest
approximately 500m west of the summit. Protection is reported to be sparse on
the shattered rock.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3