Mt McKerrow

From the ridge connecting to Black Tower (route 3.32), an easy snowslope leads to the summit of McKerrow, the third highest peak in the region covered by this guidebook.

Starting at the snow cone in the centre of the face under Mt McKerrow, climb directly to exit onto the upper snow field in line with the rock leading to the summit. There is a short steep section at first then follow up short bulges and ramps until reaching snowfields beneath the rockrib. Follow up snow on left of rock rib to the summit. 500 metres of ice on the lower shelf, and 500 m of snow slopes.

A route from the Richardson Glacier to the upper section of the west ridge avoids the schrunds above Mockery Col.

From anywhere on the Arthur Glacier there is only one peak. It dominates the valley completely, its long arms thrown around the head and along one side. Its snows feed and form the mile-long glacier. Spurs running off the great western ridge are truncated in huge bluffs. Cornices are palely blue, and the summit shimmers four thousand feet above. It has all the majesty of Hopkins combined with a lustrous beauty of its own. Bill Packard remarked wistfully that McKerrow was a peak worth wooing, and I knew then that we were committed to the climb. Steve Brockett, New Zealand Alpine Journal 1947. From Mockery Col stay close to the ridge until the snowslopes are gained and proceed up the snowfield to the summit. Schrunds en route are turned on both west and east sides.

Begin at the Landsborough River near Bubble Creek and climb the tussock slopes, bypassing a bluffy section on the north side to reach the Beith Glacier. Ascend the rapidly narrowing glacier and sidle up the north-facing slope to the summit. A long climb, which requires over 1700m of height gain.

1100m line to the left of Orinoco Flow, simul-soloed.