Mt Jackson

(4 routes)

-43.892548040000, 169.793040050000
H37 524 967
BY14 424 351
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
North Ridge/West Face 2+
Travel along the divide just on the west side, avoiding a bluffy section near Mt Hickson. Gaining the summit is easier via a couloir up the western face between the southern and central towers, followed by a short scramble to the top of the central tower.
First ascent via west face unknown
East Face 2+
The steep east face of Jackson is a lee slope, accumulates snow, and sheds major avalanches into the North Elcho valley. A route up the face can be climbed from the North Elcho Stream beyond the end of the Beech forest. Cross to the true right of the stream and pull through sub-alpine scrub and tussock onto a prominent rib. A small bivvy site under a rock on the ridge provides space for 2-3 persons, with other tent sites nearby. Follow the obvious rib up the face to reach pleasant rock ledges and the north end of the summit pyramid. A difficult cheval is required to reach the summit.
Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell December 1934
South Ridge 3
Beginning near the fork in the Elcho Stream, plod up the Moore Glacier aiming for the prominent spur which runs down from the south end of the summit towers. The rock on this rib is reported to be solid and provides good access to the south summit.
Des Beatty, Alan McNaught December 1953
West Face Central Buttress III 3 14
A sustained climb on solid rock which leads directly to the high peak. The initial pitches are the steepest (grade 14) before things lay back higher up.
Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, January 2018