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Mt Jackson

Part of
POINT (169.79304005 -43.89254804)
BY14 424 351
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North Ridge/West Face, 2+ 2+

Travel along the divide just on the west side, avoiding a bluffy section near
Mt Hickson. Gaining the summit is easier via a couloir up the western face
between the southern and central towers, followed by a short scramble to the
top of the central tower.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 East Face, 2+ 2+

The steep east face of Jackson is a lee slope, accumulates snow, and sheds
major avalanches into the North Elcho valley. A route up the face can be
climbed from the North Elcho Stream beyond the end of the Beech forest. Cross
to the true right of the stream and pull through sub-alpine scrub and tussock
onto a prominent rib. A small bivvy site under a rock on the ridge provides
space for 2-3 persons, with other tent sites nearby. Follow the obvious rib
up the face to reach pleasant rock ledges and the north end of the summit
pyramid. A difficult cheval is required to reach the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 South Ridge, 3 3

Beginning near the fork in the Elcho Stream, plod up the Moore Glacier aiming
for the prominent spur which runs down from the south end of the summit
towers. The rock on this rib is reported to be solid and provides good access
to the south summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

 West Face Central Buttress, 14,3,III 14,3,III

A sustained climb on solid rock which leads directly to the high peak. The initial pitches are the steepest (grade 14) before things lay back higher up.

  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III