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Gormenghast

Grade
5
Quality
0
First ascent
Bill McLeod, July 1993
Located on

The South West face of Mt Hopkins is an awesome 900m high wall frowning down
on the head of the Richardson Glacier. The stunning face which can be seen in
profile from as far away as Dog Kennel corner east of Lake Tekapo, has long
been on some climbers minds.
Started walking early Wednesday morning. Thursday bivvied beneath the face
but didn't look up much. Except once or twice, and had to marvel at my own
audacity. This must be the mountain of mountains. And this must be the face
of faces. Even that sighting as you come through the MacKenzie country. This
distant tower with cloud banner, a sight to captivate any mountain enthusiast
surely.
Bill McLeod, personal communication 1993.
From the Richardson Glacier ascend the rib just right of the ice cliffs to
gain the snow shelf. Head left, and up two snow shelves. From the top shelf
climb the narrow gully which takes a straight line to the skyline and exit
thirty metres west of the summit. Close to the summit the gully fades out
then reforms and continues in an appealing thread to the very top.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5

Comments
UUID
 
04254eba-683c-46d1-a2b6-94c413da4d4a