Mt Hopkins

The route of the first, and almost all subsequent ascents. From Faith Col traverse around onto the Hourglass Glacier and then follow the original route on the narrowing ridge to the summit. The climb is most frequently commenced from the Richardson Glacier but parties have also ascended the route beginning from the Dobson, and the Le Blanc Valleys.

4wd up the Dobson to Kennedy Hut. Approach via Tragedy Col to a bivvy site at Faith Col. Motivated by the numerous parties climbing the nearby Vampire, we thought this face could be in condition. A good ice climb, though difficult to protect at times, was found.

Mt Hopkins rises steeply from the Richardson Glacier. The climb has been described as a real test piece. Follow the obvious spur upwards toward the east ridge. Crux section is near three-quarter height. The rock strata provides very little assistance to climbers hence the route is best tackled when iced-up.

The South West face of Mt Hopkins is an awesome 900m high wall frowning down on the head of the Richardson Glacier. The stunning face which can be seen in profile from as far away as Dog Kennel corner east of Lake Tekapo, has long been on some climbers minds. Started walking early Wednesday morning. Thursday bivvied beneath the face but didn't look up much. Except once or twice, and had to marvel at my own audacity. This must be the mountain of mountains. And this must be the face of faces. Even that sighting as you come through the MacKenzie country. This distant tower with cloud banner, a sight to captivate any mountain enthusiast surely. Bill McLeod, personal communication 1993. From the Richardson Glacier ascend the rib just right of the ice cliffs to gain the snow shelf. Head left, and up two snow shelves. From the top shelf climb the narrow gully which takes a straight line to the skyline and exit thirty metres west of the summit. Close to the summit the gully fades out then reforms and continues in an appealing thread to the very top.

An obvious but exposed route on steep snow slopes leading from the summit of Mt Hopkins down the face and providing access to Hope Col, and Black Tower. A crevasse near the bottom of the slope can make late summer ascents interesting.

Descending from Le Blanc Glacier, if the narrow gully is broken head on to a ledge on its true left (just above where the gully narrows). Three 50m abseils to valley floor. The bottom half of the buttress is actually two ridges which merge at half height. The left one (looking up) has better rock, easy soloing (grade 10) for 500metres till reaching a snow shelf. Head up and start again up ramps on the upper buttress. Another 100 metres of solid grade 12 solo, then 500metres of sustained grade 14-17 climbing (20+ pitches, we simul-climbed some sections). The technical crux is high on the route. Overall, the climb increases throughout in technical nature and commitment, including very exposed summit ridge traversing. The rock is generally of good to very good quality with enough protection, although there are some loose plates high up.

Ascend the Le Blanc Glacier by surmounting the choked gully at mid-height, and continuing up the snowfield to join the original ascent route. The climb involving over 1700m of height gain, and return can be completed in a long day from the bivvy rock near the mouth of Romping Water. This ridge of rotten rock is quite sensational. It is steep and narrow with a tremendous drop on either side. ... The climb to the summit would have been straightforward though exposed, had the ridge not been partially snowed up. At one point we had to make a nasty detour on to very steep snow-covered rock on the Le Blanc face. We double-roped down the ridge at this point on the way back. We reached the summit at 1.15pm after some careful climbing. It was another wonderful view, this time including the Hopkins Valley. At this hour we did not consider attempting the big task of traversing on to the virgin peak. Time, perhaps, was not the only factor. Earle Riddiford, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1948.