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Mt Brewster

Part of
POINT (169.44897431 -44.06526211)
BZ13 156 147
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Type Name
Face North Face
Face The Brewery


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North East Ridge, 2+ 2+

A long approach via Long Flat Creek leads up to the Main Divide. Sidle along
the ridge turning problems on both left and right to reach a summit tower.
Climb a chimney and loose blocks to gain the crest and the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 South East Face, 2+ 2+

The first ascent of this peak was completed from the upper reaches of the
Makarora River. Modern climbers can cross the ridge from the Brewster Glacier
and follow a gully onto the crest.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 South West Face, 2+ 2+

From Brewster Hut sidle past Armstrong and Peak 2257 to reach the upper
Brewster Glacier. Alternatively, from a camp on the Stey Brae ridge, traverse
to the bottom of the face. A number of gully routes of moderate difficulty
lead up to the crest. Move along the narrow summit ridge to the top. Descent
is typically via a ridge and gully onto the south face, followed by a
traverse back onto the Brewster Glacier.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 West Ridge, 2 2

Bush bash up Warden Spur and over Topheavy Peak then follow the broad ridge
to the summit. The top section can be tricky when plastered with sastrugi.
Alternatively, walk in via Brewster hut and traverse to glacier across rough
ground. Traverse in between 1750-1800m alt to avoid dangerous gully. 5.5 hrs.
Route across glacier and over triple pointed summit ridge 6 hrs return.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

 From the Wills Valley, 2 2

Follow Fleming Creek and choose a route up either the east or west ridge.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

 North Island Detox, 12,2+ 12,2+ 100m

Walk west under the south west face until 50-100m from the south west ridge.
A slab of compact rock exists on the right hand side of a buttress. Climb
this to the top of the ridge (grade 12, 2 pitches) and then scramble along
the ridge to the summit. A much better route in mid summer than the choss
fest on the south west face.

  • P1
  • 12
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+
  • 100m
  • Trad