Mt Edgar Thomson

(7 routes)

Edgar Thomson is the northernmost peak of the Ben Ohau Range. Jane Thomson and Conrad Kain claimed the first ascent in 1915 in preparation for their Grand Traverse of Aoraki Mt Cook, undertaken the following year when Thomson was 57. Thomson named the peak after her son Edgar who died from a football injury.

-43.779000000000, 170.063900000000
D40 943 953
CB08 842 335
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West Face III 3+ 12
The base of this route is easily accessible from Jamieson Saddle. Scramble up mainly good, exposed rock on the central pillar of the west buttress leading to the subsidiary south-west peak. Follow the ridge to the main summit.
Tim Steward, Reg Measures, 13 February 2012
South Ridge I 1 1
From Jamieson Saddle travel for two kilometres along the ridge to the summit.
Charlie Collins, David Hall, Priestly Thomson, March 1946
South Face I 2 2
Travel up Birch Hill Stream until past the last sub-alpine vegetation, then angle up the steep lower slopes and the snowfield to the summit.
J A Roberts, Clem Williams, March 1925
East Ridge I 1+ 2
From the Hoophorn Stream scramble to the saddle west of Mt Hodgkinson, then travel up the ridge and snowslope to the summit. The connecting ridge to Mt Sealy provides excellent alpine rockclimbing. The summit of Edgar Thomson provides a superb viewpoint into the Dobson Valley, Aoraki Mt Cook National Park, and the McKenzie Basin.
Jane Thomson, Conrad Kain, April 1915
Central Rib III 3 2+
Climb the vague rib on the North East Face that begins in the true right of the upper Hoophorn basin and runs up the centre of the face.
Hans Muller, Otto Van Allman, 1973
Whiteley Woute III 2+ 2+
From the upper reaches of Hoophorn Stream follow a steep snow lead to reach the ridge close to the summit. The first ascent is reputed to have been completed by moonlight after a pub session had concluded the face was overdue an ascent!
Richard Whiteley, July 1971
North East Face Variant III 3 2+
Begin at the base of the Whiteley Woute, but instead of following the gully, move right onto a vague rib. Good rock on the lower half, but angles back and becomes more shattered higher up. This route avoids the worst of the avalanche danger, and reaches the ridge about 200m north-west of the summit.
Luke Barrett, October 2011