Mt Edgar Thomson

The base of this route is easily accessible from Jamieson Saddle. Scramble up mainly good, exposed rock on the central pillar of the west buttress leading to the subsidiary south-west peak. Follow the ridge to the main summit.

From Jamieson Saddle travel for two kilometres along the ridge to the summit.

Travel up Birch Hill Stream until past the last sub-alpine vegetation, then angle up the steep lower slopes and the snowfield to the summit.

From the Hoophorn Stream scramble to the saddle west of Mt Hodgkinson, then travel up the ridge and snowslope to the summit. The connecting ridge to Mt Sealy provides excellent alpine rockclimbing. The summit of Edgar Thomson provides a superb viewpoint into the Dobson Valley, Aoraki Mt Cook National Park, and the McKenzie Basin.

Climb the vague rib on the North East Face that begins in the true right of the upper Hoophorn basin and runs up the centre of the face.

From the upper reaches of Hoophorn Stream follow a steep snow lead to reach the ridge close to the summit. The first ascent is reputed to have been completed by moonlight after a pub session had concluded the face was overdue an ascent!

Begin at the base of the Whiteley Woute, but instead of following the gully, move right onto a vague rib. Good rock on the lower half, but angles back and becomes more shattered higher up. This route avoids the worst of the avalanche danger, and reaches the ridge about 200m north-west of the summit.