Sunny Side

(8 routes)

These climbs are located on the true left of Back Bush Stream and get the sun. It’s most likely that routes in this area will form first due to the sun and extra freeze-thaw action. Take care with avalanche danger as the slopes above the cliffs get a lot of sun and load in south-west storms. These slopes have a similar aspect and elevation as the slopes above Sealy Tarn at Aoraki Mt Cook.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Wasted Moments WI3 70m
The bottom left of the sunny side. Tucked away around a corner, there is also a considerable amount of other ice in this area that is as yet unclimbed. P1. Either go straight up the corner (depending on conditions) or use the ramp on the right hand side. Belay out of the way of potential ice fall from the chandeliers above. P2. Take the line of least resistance up the flow avoiding the long steep pillar (not in condition at time of first ascent). Belay off Abakalovs.
Scott Standen, Mal Haskins, August 2004
Toto We Ain’t in Canada No More WI4 160m
The obvious right hand book corner at the bottom centre of the face. P1. Straight up the gully/ corner over thin ice to belay at full rope stretch. P2. The corner above. In good conditions this corner could be avoided by heading out to the right but ultra-thin ice may make this a more unappealing option. Otherwise climb the left hand side of the corner, stemming onto the rock face where needed. Belay was constructed from three knifeblades and a knotted tape due to thin ice and no more rope! P3 Climb the pleasantly vertical and generally well formed short curtain above. Belay from rock above (slings and pitons). Rapp off.
Mal Haskins, Saul Dixon, July 2003
The Portal WI2 20m
This small pitch is the access to TRBB and Planet Tourism area. It is located at the bottom of the main gully splitting the Sunny Side. There is generally a generous amount of avalanche debris at the bottom of this couloir and at times this route maybe covered. Careful consideration to the avalanche conditions and the stability of the surrounding ice must be taken into account when approaching this area. Climb the short pitch and belay off to one side. Rap off or down climb
Mal Haskins, Thomas Shaovitts, July 2003
Planet Tourism WI4 120m
A hidden gem up the top end of the gully. Be very conscious of avalanche danger in this area. Climb up the stepped flows on the right to reach the top flow. There is another route to be done here continuing straight up the gully. Pitch one, 60 metres of fun going up and over a series of vertical steps. Belay out on the right. The second pitch consists of an interesting vertical to overhanging curtain which eases off to give a good rest at half-height before you launch into the remaining 30 metres of vertical steps. Good rests can be found on this route. Belaying from the top may require t-slots and rapping off can be problematic.
Mal Haskins, Dave Williams, winter 2002 or 2003
Reality Birdbath WI5 150m
A really great line. Pitches 4 and 5 are able to be seen from the road. This route is a good indication of the condition of the rest of the valley. Access the main gully via The Portal. The route starts up on the right hand side. P1. A Series of short, rolling steps leads to a corner and curtain system. Climb the corner with great stemming. Look out for the overhanging mushrooms and chandeliers near the top. Belay on snow slope above. P2. Short step up to another snow slope. Climb either the ramp or the vertical curtain. Can be avoided by walking up the snow ramp to the right. P3. Up and into the ‘Grotto’. Another great pitch in a nice setting, belay of screws in corner. P4. A full 40 metres of vertical to near vertical ice. Look out for some overhanging technical ice near the top. Pitches 3, 4 could be combined out on the right – maybe WI6. P5. The pleasant flow above leading to the upper terrace of The Sunny Side. Rap off.
Mal Haskins, Thomas Shaovitts, July 2003
Space Cadets WI3 60m
When you get out of bed it pays to actually have a plan. Pitch 1 is visually unimpressive but quickly makes you reassess why you climb. Moves through some technical ground before easing off. Pitch 2 continue up and around the corner. Straight forward.
Mal Haskins, Dave Williams, winter 2002 or 2003
Skidmark WI3 35m
A thin smear of ice up a dirty gully in the vicinity of Comme Elle Vient. Walk off. Johnny is at pains to say it was named by Mal.
Johnny Davison, Mal Haskins, July 2006
Comme Elle Vient WI5 40m
A classic water ice route on a fat pillar. The name is from Johnny's favourite Noir Desir song which translates as ‘As She Comes’ or in this case ‘As Life Comes’. Abseil off. “[One] of the best ice routes I've climbed in New Zealand … super classic Kiwi water ice route .... solid WI5 by Canadian standards.” – Johnny Davison, NZAJ 2006
Johnny Davison, Mal Haskins, July 2006
OLA 2021