South Face Mt Brown

(15 routes)

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Leaning Tower WI4 130m
The imposing line directly above the campsite. Possibly the first route to form in the valley. Crux is the first pitch, the route steepens again on second pitch. Possible to do in two long pitches.
Erin Hawke, Jim Spenser 2002
Lean Chimney WI3 60m
Erin Hawke, Jim Spencer, 2002
Gateway WI4 55m
The middle line of three. Enter the narrow gully that widens and steepens towards the top. Climbed in thinnish conditions.
Mal Haskins, Dave Williams, Alex Cottle, July 2003
Even Flow WI2 55m
Erin Hawke, 2002
Jaws WI4
Jaws is on a wall split by a large rock. The rock that splits the flow looks like the bit between the jaws of ice. Snow gully to access the flow. A two pitch ice route to the true left of the rock. H37, GR 725024
Erin Hawke, Jim Spenser, Winter 2001
Predator WI4 50m
50m with several startlingly steep steps between slightly easier ground. Climbed in fat blue conditions. Lat: 43.84395; Long: 170.04734
Kester Brown, Jono Clarke, Winter 2006
Having a Cadbury Moment WI4 45m
At the right end of the gully. 45 m of fun climbing to the shoulder. Steeper at the bottom. Climbed with nice chandelier and curtain on the right hand side that was most useful for stemming onto. Rap off.
Mal Haskins, Brad Miller, August 2003
Diving in at the Deep End WI3 50m
Gain the routes either over the small shoulder at the base of the couloir, or climb Beginners Luck as a first pitch. Straight forward to the top. Beware thin ice near the top of the route. Generally in better condition than it may appear. Rap Off.
Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob Dunn, July 2003
Malformed WI3 35m
Immediately to the right of DIADE. Climbed in thin conditions with hollow ice at the top of the route. Descent of route via ice thread at top of DIADE. Natural anchor possible at top using small wire / pitons
Mal Haskins, Damien Gildea, Chris White, August 2004
Beginner's Luck WI3 50m
Top roped late in the afternoon after climbing DIADE. The route would be WI2 if climbed on the true left or WI 3 if the short vertical curtain on the right is climbed instead.
Top Roped by Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob Dunn, July 2003
Whatever WI2 20m
The middle set of flows on the lower tier of routes on the South Face. Good introductory climb. Snow stake may be of use as a belay instead of an ice thread.
Peter MaWhinney, Jono Clarke, July 2003
The Urinator WI2 20m
Downstream 20m from Whatever, is a small wet climb with a tussock top out. The first time this little flow was climbed it was a bit leaky — hence the name.
Erin Hawke, Dave Williams 2002
Deformed on Palpation WI5
Climb the centre of the three lines immediately above and right of the triangle-shaped buttress at the lower right side of the south face of Mt Brown.
Jamie Vinton-Boot, Nick Hanafin, July 2011
Pugmuncher WI3
True right of the rock. H37, GR 725024. Two pitches, 50m of steepish ice with a few short bulges to keep it interesting.
Jono Clarke, Kester Brown, Winter 2001
The Thin White Line WI4 160m
The other route you always look at from camp! Approach by walking down Bush Stream for about 300m from the campsite and then climbing through the scree and scrub to the base. The obvious line bisecting the buttress. Pitch 1. Climbed in very thin conditions with detachable ice. Pitons and some natural gear required. Belay of natural pro/boulders above. Pitch 2 up and into the gully. Ice narrows towards the top. Quite thin ice. Belay under cave / roof above. Pitch 3 is straightforward to the top. Continue to climb to full rope length. The get off, walk above route to the first large prominent rock tower. Descend below tower on easy slopes to ramp leading down of shoulder. Beware of avalanche danger in this area.
Mal Haskins, Brad Miller, August 2003
OLA 2021