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Te Ika A Maui

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

Only Roadside and River Wall are open for climbing.

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

Bayley Road is open for a trial period. Log in to see access conditions.

Type
Sector
Part of
Bayley Road

Named for the prominent pinnacle of rock with flakes shaped like the North Island. The
Kiwi answer to the North America Wall at Yosemite I suppose. It is across the river from
New Wall. If you are lucky you can ford the river, otherwise get access from the road (see
map).

Aspect
South
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Left Rib, 14 14 9m 2
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 9m
  • 2

Upstream from the pinnacle is a separate smallish crag with 2 easy bolted routes. Climb the LH buttress. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.

 Right Rib, 16 16 9m 2
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 9m
  • 2

Climb the RH wall. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.

 Dogus Knobus, 19 19 15m 5
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 5

Half way along the main wall is a short corner with a small cabbage tree on top: On the main pinnacle. 30m left of Helen. 5 naked bolts. DBC belay.

 Helen, 22 22 16m 3
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 16m
  • 3
  • Trad

Left of Svine Werst up a steep corner. Climb the right wall past a large pockets (#3.5 friend placement), then follow 3 bolts to the top. The crux is below the second bolt.
 Svine Werst, 17 17 45m 2
0

Hopefully not a commentary on the quality of the climb.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 45m

Scramble to the base of a corner and belay on a bracken covered ledge.

  • P2
  • 17
  • 2

Climb an easy wall past 2 bolts. Bold moves to finish.

 Le Pommeaux du Chieu, 20 20 45m 2
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 45m
  • 2
  • Trad

Start up the open book corner -2 bolts to a large ledge and belay on nuts and friends.

  • P2
  • 1
  • Trad

Climb the corner crack to a ledge. Lauch left up onto a wall past 1 bolt. Place a #1.5 friend in a horizontal crack before the second bolt. Top out on the pinnacle. The DBC belay is in a pretty wild spot!

 R18, 18 18 5m 1
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 5m
  • 1

Some distance downstream and up the slope is a prominent knob of rock. Can’t miss it really: The singularly unique rock across the river from the New Wall. Cliff got stick for months over this one, especially since he nearly creamed himself after falling off near the top. Freud would have had a field day. One naked (what else!) bolt. No belay, so walk off the back.

Comments
UUID
 
cadf9bff-a5f2-43d1-828d-6b4948f85469