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Bayley Road

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Following rumours of rock somewhere down Bayley Road, Bryce and Dave drove down to have a look, and were amazed at the huge, crack-lined buttress just metres from the road. The largest crack, Swallow, was the first route to be done, along with some more routes on the stunning aretes of River Wall, just 100m down the farm track. Bayleys is probably the most cosmopolitan of the crags in this guide, as more than a dozen climbers have done new routes here. High quality aretes and corners are the most outstanding features of Bayleys, which gives a great variety of distinctive arete, face, and corner climbing. For the trad climber, there are half a dozen good crack climbs (unusual for Wharepapa ignimbrite) Still Crazy and Jubilation Crack being outstanding examples. Excellent bouldering is found in the paddock at the back of Monday Wall, and in the boulder field next to the road, possibly the best at Wharepapa.

POINT (175.493288 -38.178628)

From Wharepapa, drive down Seafund Road past Smith and Sheridan, at the T intersection, turn left down Bayley road. Follow this for about 5 km past Loop road and down the hill. At the base of the hill is a large rock buttress with a crack up one side This is the Bayleys’ “RoadSide”. Park in the layby just past this point.
Note. If you wish to climb on the rocks on the other side of the river then you will need to get permission from the Elliotts. Their house is on the other side of the bridge.

Add Place Add Route


Type Name
Sector Roadside
Sector River Wall
Sector Monday Wall
Sector New Wall
Sector Te Ika A Maui
Sector Leaning Buttress
Hosted on Written By Michael Camilleri Updated by Cliff Ellery